YouTube video by Kirby Allison about the history and variety of boot styles from Lobb’s
Notes
History
- Duke of Wellington brought into day wear
- class standing, riding horses
- got first royal warrant from Prince of Wales due to riding boots presented to him
- old photos of storefront show many boots in windows
- talk through models
Classic Riding Boot
- more work than a shoe
- measure down the leg
- heel measure instead of ankle measure
- vamp blocked
- usually German seat
- split lift to level base of heel
- split lift sewn to upper and innersole
- prevents heel from pulling off
- straight breast, slightly slanted so boot sits angled in stirrup
Navvy Cut Field Boot
- Navvy refers to way facings stitched on vamp
- same as Derby
- can have Oxford field boots
- Navvy cut gives more opening
- a bit more casual
- also used for walking
- flat side seam so can’t see stitching inside
- water resistant, not waterproof
Greenly Boot
- side straps
- lacing
- good for walking
- used by Royal Artillery
- made for other regiments in 1939
- bellows tongue under straps
- leg of boot closed in two dimensions, blocked on tree to get shape
- sometimes make without tree, but would have to find some to get into shape
- make with backstrap unstitched, try it on the customer to check leg fit, then stitch up the backstrap
- gives ability to let out a bit
- then block on a boot tree
- allow 1/4” for leather to stretch on tree
Wellington Boot
- designed by the Duke
- Hoby the Great, bootmaker
- had shop on St. James, down the straight
- acquired the miniature prototype from him
- sent to Wellington for approval in the field
- generally 12 inches high for army, 10 inches for naval
- like a riding boot, same tongue
- different side seam
- same counter at back
- distinction: two seams up the sides, shorter boot
- military: relax in the evening, easier to get on and off
Briar Boot
- canvas top
- shooting or walking
- Norwegian welt to prevent water getting in
- waterproof backing
Heights
- as streets improved, less much, could go to lower boots
- still make low casual boots
Strap Jodhpurs
- really popular style
- can be worn riding
- probably originated: riding and walking
- easy to get on and off
- really hard to block large piece of crocodile leather
Chelsea Boot
- unusual tree with a plunger handle
- produce their own trees
- all individually made
City Boot
- suit or jeans
Monk Hilo Design
- curved facing
Double Monk
- invented by William John Lobb
- worked out in the Paris shop for a customer there
Suede Monks
- brass and engraved trees
- boot bags from matching suede
Loafer
- designed by great uncle
- lightweight shoe tree hollowed out
- turned up insole for arch support
Really Tall Women’s Lace-Up
- huge tree
- very high heel
- thigh-length
- “can’t imagine when they would wear it”
- “still on our price list”
Hobnail Military
- Navvy-cut Derby, cap
- really rare to use hobnails now
- hobs still available
- can’t walk everywhere
Hessian Boot
- rumpled tops
- very narrow, sculpted heel
- very dense outsole stitches
- don’t really do that dense stitching anymore
Old Riding Boot
- well used
- patched from repairs
- waxed calf (flesh side of calf, boned smooth, filled with blacking)
- can bone out any scuffs
- tugs for boot hooks
Riding Boot with Mahogany Top
- when hunting, for color code
- smooth waxed calf
- takes a lot of work to finish, but then easy to maintain
- spur rest
- spur box
Boot Tree
- added a leather fitting to give the wearer more room in the calf
Final Thoughts
- nice to make boots
- do lots of ankle boots
- not so often long boots
- make a statement, stand out