book by Karl C. Adrian of Brown Shoe Company
Full Title: American Last Making: Procedures, Scale Comparisons, Sizing and Grading Information, Basic Shell Layout, Bottom Equipment Standards
Notes
- geometric grading no longer used, since no machines use it and obsolete with computers
- first job that a trainee would get in the model room: plating and tacking featherlines
- page 9 shows measuring stick length with both the ball and the back of the backpart lying on the runner of the size stick
- “Size 11 accommodation model”
- methods for laying paper over one size to build up for turning to another width
- “back elevation” (Page 16)
- diagrams with names of parts and dimensions for Louis, cuban, and wedge heels
- page 30 shows one AK64 bottom pattern layout
- Note: “This AK-64 last bottom layout system has been very helpful to determine the correct swing of a last”
- says that manufacturers following AFIA Subcommittee on standards guidelines for heel wedge angles
- diagram and reference chart for Krippendorf Finder for determining instep (Pages 35-6)
- pages on both mens and women’s toe spring and heel tread mention
some shoes “draw” when the Last is pulled, the result being the toe is pulled up and the toe spring is increased
- women’s high-heels, page 38:
Correct Tread: Back edge beneath toplift shows about a dime’s thickness of air space.
- “cuboid”
- used with different meanings
- doctors: bone
- shoe people:
the curvature or “roll” on the outer surface of the last
- different shapes for, e.g., boots and pumps with low, tight toplines
- diagram of a last trap on page 4
- pages 41-43 appear to be right out of a Sterling catalog
- “shank die breaks” (Page 45)
- Table: “Men’s Last Brading Measurements - Generally Accepted”
- men’s toe spring and heel tread, page 55
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Many of us feel no heel spring is necessary in men’s shoes.
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