Ask the Bootmaker podcast with Holly Henry
- won awards at Wichita Falls and Sheridan
- got a new client from Wichita Falls
- reached out on Facebook Messenger
- doesn’t really use Facebook much
- wife saw your boots at Wichita Falls
- first time entering work at a trade show
- had been to the shows with mentor as a vendor
- Jim Brainard
- extra pressure for show boots
- never perfect
- said “there goes my ribbon” a hundred times
- finished them much faster than usual, over a couple weeks
- were for a customer
- many makers will take whatever boots they made most recently
- entere two pairs, one a last-minute hustle
- one was made pretty much just for show
- get a kind of fever at a trade show, already planning what to do for next year
- can ship boots in, but being there has an edge and excitement
- weakest skill topstitching
- been an apprentice for five years, mostly bottom work
- can’t be in journeyman, since won an award
- “do it scared”
- professional photographer from age 14
- on Flickr
- went to school for it
- felt out making saddles, but no uptake
- took a class at art school, fell in love
Wichita Falls journeyman pair
- made for her, have been worn
- starting to slouch around the ankle
Other Competition Boots
- short botinas
- black
- alligator
- haven’t been work yet
- also on her personal last
- makes jeans for herself, some too skinny for going over boot tops
- sample boots
Mentors
- two mentors, Jim and The Mad Tailor
- worked for a few NYC hat makers after graduation
- learned to sew, pattern with him
- making things stand out
- apprenticed with Zephan Parker in Houston
- she’s from Houston
- classic boot shop
- classic apprenticeship
- inseamed and bottomed hundreds of pairs
- have only made about 10 boots start to finish, but lots of repair experience
- learning to break boots down gets you thinking about how to construct
- Jim is very good with machines
- gotten strong helping move machines around
- New York City, Texas, Colorado
- not a city girl
favorite toe shape
- mostly making box toes on the narrower side
- wants to try refined round toes, French toes
Location
- in Parker, Colorado, just outside Denver
Fish Leathers
- tried some carp leather, felt too delicate
- hasn’t tried pirarucu fish
- doesn’t like flaky look
- anteater smoother, but no longer available
her way versus, say, Blackjack
- true custom process
- have people bring in boots for repair where measurements were mailed in, but boots don’t fit
- “true custom”
favorite part of process
- enjoying topstitching, though not greatly experienced
- Jim allowing her to help with some of his orders
- listens to podcasts or music
- meditation time
- not the most comfortable step
stitch patterns
- “the politics of stitch patterns”
- classic shops or makers have personal patterns
- “you don’t touch those” unless you can ask them for permission
- can be inspired by them
- tries to maker her own, struggling with it
- not hard to make them look classic, it’s mostly innate
- Graham Ebner made armadillo getting abducted, with mushrooms, still look classic
- Blucher Boots out of Oklahoma very distinctive, can see lineage in people who trained there
male-dominated industry
- might be subconscious
- proud to be in the minority
- have a monthly Zoom call
- many talented women now
- “plot world domination”
- everyone is welcoming, men and women
- good to go to both trade shows, since people tend to only go to their local event
Tattoo Patterns
- never had someone ask to match a tattoo on tops
- have seen veg tan leather tattooed
- instead of tooling
- Japanese shoemaker
Moving Up to Custom
- worked as a wrangler in Houston, went to Boot Barn to find a beater pair, couldn’t go back to off-the-shelf
Most Difficult Part
- varies from boot to boot
- leathers vary
- watching Jim battle ostrich
- kangaroo doesn’t have a stretch grain either way
- most intimidating is outsole stitch on curve-needle
- big, scary machine
- costly mistakes
Ostrich
- great leather for boots
- durable for weight
- very flashy
- flesh side is fluffy
- soft temper
- crimping is hard
- lasting is hard
- the forming is the challenge
- no big deal for inlay
- already thin
Future of Custom Bootmaking
- excited and nervous
- goal: have own shop
- location is a big question
- Texas with everyone?
- anywhere, since social media?
- lots of support
- older bootmakers very giving with knowledge
- Sorrell: there’s always going to be more demand than supply
Finding
- mainly Instagram
- “just DM me”