YouTube video by Kirby Allison showing foot measurement by Francis Waplinger
Notes
- starts seated
- spiral-bound sketchbook
- once feet on paper, immediately asks to stand
-
foot tracing
- pencil freehand
- asks to keep heel down, lift toes to get tape under
- marks position of tape on tracing
- angled ball girth
- just behind joints
- shimmies tape back and forth to reposition under foot
- instep girth
- asks about fit issues: ankle bones, instep
- short heel
- goal really to get to the fitting shoe, adjust from there
- pulling taught but not really tight
-
ankle height
- more important for really prominent ankle bones and toplines
- preference
-
vacuum-packed onto feet
- a little more room
-
- expectations
- many Americans like way too loose
- thin versus thick socks
- brings a pair of dress socks to fittings
-
PedoPrint
- inks the grid side
- taken sitting down
- informs contouring of bottom of last
- location of the medial longitudinal arch
- foot tracing with stylus
- sees instances where customer chooses a hard leather, like a box calf, but chooses a softer leather to improve fit
- usually about four months between taking measurements and using them to make last
- total first shoe usually 6 to 8 months
- carving last usually a day or so for both left and right
- exceptional cases, may work on it over a few days with breaks