YouTube video series by Andrew Wrigley
1. Intro and Patternmaking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iC0RoNws64Q
2. Clicking and Skiving
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxxnO0doskQ
3. Broguing and Dyeing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1qPp4Be83g
4. Closing the Upper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWslfOqD_wg
5. Lining and Topbeading
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KTVrwyNbaU
6. Insole and Feather
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM9rmKU0EoA
7. Lasting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEfKZnqjsns
8a-h. Toe Puff and Heel Counter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fmrDZhaX1k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euBwBh-BQUs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUheFhxf5Lw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLWZ09Ep1oY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sepFpY9MYBo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmEoVD4cWkM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2EDZcYfftk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xD5Q5RZTyD0
9a-cc. The Rand and Welting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0u37xqzyLM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9TwrXlZgyg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmo-fl0xw9Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2AUfXlAZKU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_5gNS8CKVM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxYmJsuBlgE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32fSl0-EvWA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jk90UF3xeHQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh3izcF5M8A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NS-epN5EvPs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc6FjteYwFM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvu_lzyJzeY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkX6BjVoR00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-c0mn-wg7jc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHkVXxei8jk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLXe67Fc6IU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYzIZeyXyyM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zV4F-4TB2IA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3Rs6E7KV-I https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKR21tvDZI8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOAng_25p6U https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0o0APTilTE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_Pk2jqjlCI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v37SK7juXaI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZEyyC8kH24 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgUHZbmOG8I https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGC4OfX3bnw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3E2qb2IlO5g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2D1U1hdhbuU
10a-h. Sewing the Outsole
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAl4TYnP7-Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sBsF11jU-4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwJL6ZpyxAc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WABzF5XB_n8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO1FGFmdxzo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYRzWqkNwAc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbSLfwAR4OE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XryVWKDNGAc
11a-k. Finishing the Outsole and Heel
a
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwWpNouQG4Y
- beveled waist might come from horse riding
- [shapes the waist with a whole pane of glass, without snapping off a shard]
b
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sUehqUmBko
- more shaping waist with glass
c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8Fwc3NlzqY
- sandpaper on sanding stick on heel stack
- will wet and hammer to compress fibers
d
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPEPyRBS4OY
- hammers with pane vertical
- then switches to face
- also rubs with face
- also rubs with pane
- “makes leather harder and more unified”
- avoid hitting the upper
- turns the shoe in his lap a lot
- also burnishes the top edge around the seat with the pane
- next: cold method
- ideal: finishing irons
- made a tool out of rock maple
- wrapped sandpaper around a dowel to make hollows
e
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVv4-0FT130 [extremely short video, cut off]
f
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ2oGzD6mYo
- another short
- brushing edge with water
g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guLlV5jSOE4
- camera batteries died, so lost footage
- masked off bottom with masking tape
- used alcohol dye on edges
- peened with hammer
- gum tragacanth as edge slicking agent
- some just use wax to slick
- fills the grain
- not as good a job
- tragacanth gets hard
- did one layer tragacanth, then blocked the sole again, made it easier
- DIY edge tool
-
Arford Enterprises tools good, but expensive
- can heat them up
- cold method without heat can make beautiful edge
- when applying a rubber top lift, best to have a sander to grind down
- can do old methods without power tools
- at home, can do a lot with sandpaper around wood
- make sure it’s good sandpaper
- shows Norton brand
- sharp cutting quality
- will do
- dye edge
- dye waist
- slick
h
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpimozu-upc
- slicking with gum trag
- tool has a guide lip that goes on top of the welt
- have to dye before gum trag
i
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bkdYRqF89k
- curved part of maple tool for burnishing waist
- masking tape to make lines of waist dye job
- curved hollow on other end of maple tool for side of waist
- has two DIY tools
j
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqaIPHpHS24
- delasted
- imitates a big struggle
- also dyed the forepart black
- leather didn’t take the stain well
- domestic soling strip
- plasticky coating that has to be sanded off
- did full leather top lift, wooden pegs around back edge
- burnished with agate burnisher for gilding
- can use wood if polished enough
- will wax, touch up with dark oil paint around welt and edge to color the waxed poly outseam stitching
k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOPBq0FpgK0
- finished shoe, sans sock liner and polish
- made with easily obtainable tools
- “now you go do better!”
- “keep clicking and skiving”