Manual of Shoemaking

Also Known As: Miller

book edited by R.G. Miller and published by Clarks, largely focused on mass production methods

Editions

  1. 1966
  2. 1976 (Second Impression 1977)
  3. 1978
  4. 1980

Fifth Edition Table of Contents

  1. Parts of a Shoe
    • Introduction
    • Elementary Shoe
    • Typical Ladies Shoe
    • Typical Men’s Shoe
    • Uppers
    • Bottoms
    • Components
  2. Product Marketing
    • Introduction
    • Consumer Needs
    • Market Segmentation
  3. Feet
    • Introduction
    • Bones
    • Joints
    • Ligaments
    • Muscles
    • Skin
    • Arches of the Foot
    • Changes during Growth
    • Functions of the Foot
    • Common Foot Troubles
  4. Foot Measurement
    • Introduction
    • Measurement for Bespoke Footwear
    • Foot Surveys
    • Size Systems
    • Fitting the Shoe
  5. Lasts
    • Introduction
    • Materials
    • Definitions
    • Last Styling and Model Making
    • Co-ordination
    • Lasts and Feet
    • Last Manufacture
    • Hinging Methods
  6. Product Development
    • Introduction
    • Development Procedure
    • Pattern Cutting - Introduction
    • Forme Cutting
    • Standard Making
    • Working Patterns
    • Bottom Patterns
    • Grading
  7. Cutting
    • Introduction
    • Qualities required in a Clicker
    • Materials
    • Characteristics and Variations in Leather
    • Manufacturing Requirements
    • Methods of Cutting
    • Leather Measurement Systems
  8. Closing
    • Introduction
    • Preparation
    • Topline and Edge Treatments
    • Fitting Together
    • Stitching Machines
    • Stitch Formations
    • Types of Seam
    • Finishing Off
    • Threads
    • Needles
    • Guides
    • High Frequency Heating (H.F.)
  9. Organisation of Closing
    • Introduction
    • Sequence of Operations
    • Conveyors
    • Work Content
    • Work Potential Available
    • Balancing the Closing Room
    • Versatility
    • Training
    • Reverse Operative Capacity
  10. Components
    • Introduction - Stockfitting
    • Soles
    • Insoles
    • Stiffeners
    • Toepuffs
    • Heels
    • Sole Preparation for Cemented Construction
    • Single Sole Pre-finishing
    • Multiple Sole Pre-finishing
    • Insole Preparation for Cemented Construction
  11. Board Manufacture
    • Stock Preparation
    • Board Making - 3 Methods
  12. Introduction to Making
    • Introduction
    • Assembly
    • Lasting
    • Attaching
    • Methods of Construction
  13. Flow Charts for Methods of Construction
    • Introduction
    • Cemented/Pre-finished
    • Cemented/Finished on the Shoe
    • Direct Vulcanised
    • Injection Moulded PVC
    • Injection Moulded PU
    • Veldtschoen
    • Machine Welted
    • Slip Lasted
    • String Lasted
  14. Condition of Uppers
    • Conditioning before Lasting
    • Heat Setting
  15. Cemented Construction
    • Introduction
    • Lasting Operations
    • Attaching Operations
    • Summary of Advantages and Disadvantages
  16. Moulded Constructions
    • Introduction
    • Lasting for Moulded Constructions
    • Direct Vulcanising
    • Injection Moulding PVC
    • Introduction Moulding Polyurethane
  17. Veldtschoen Construction
    • Introduction
    • Lasting Operations
    • Attaching Operations
    • Finishing Operations
  18. Machine Welted Construction
    • Introduction
    • Insole Preparation
    • Sole Preparation
    • Lasting (Conventional)
    • Cement Lasting
    • Attaching
  19. Slip Lasted Construction
    • Introduction
    • Slip Lasted Forepart Type
    • Fully Slip Lasted Type
  20. String Lasting
    • Introduction
    • Lasting
  21. Machine Sewn Construction
    • Introduction
    • Sole Preparation
    • Lasting
    • Attaching
  22. Finishing
    • Introduction
    • Sequence of Operations
  23. Treeing (Shoe Room)
    • Introduction
    • Sequence for Grain Leather Uppers
    • Sequence for Suede Leather Uppers