a book on patterning
H.J. Patrick
Published by Mobbs Miller Limited, England
Editions
- 1962
- 1964
- 1979
- 1983
Fourth Edition
Contents
- The Insole Shape
- Forme Cutting
- Men’s Shoe Standard
- Oxford Shoe
- Gibson Shoe
- Apron Front Shoe
- Mudguard Shoe
- Brogue Shoe
- Monk Shoe
- Casual Half Saddle
- Casual Full Saddle
- Sandal
- Bowling Shoe
- Derby Boot, including discussions of half and full bellows tongues
- Balmoral Boot
- Albert Slipper
- Grecian Slipper
- High Leg Boots
- Riding Boot
- Motor Cycling Boot
- Football Boot
- Ladies Formes
- Court Shoe
- 1 Bar Shoe
- Ghillie Shoe
- Oxford Shoe
- Casual
- Gusset Casual
- Instep Tie
- Jodhpur Boot
- Zip Bootee
- Slip Lasted Sandal
- Children’s 1 Bar
- Ankle Strap
- Veldtschoen Sandal
- Zig Zag Moccasin
- Chelsea Boot
- A New Approach to Grading by Hand
- Outsoles
- Socks
- Measure and Comparison Tables
Points
| Name Given | Compare | |
|---|---|---|
| A | "Centre of Toe" | Toe Point |
| B | "Front Height" | |
| I | "Instep" | Instep Point |
| CP | Counter Point | |
| S | (Perhaps for "Seat") | Heel Point |
| X | "Contact Point 90° to A-B |
Notes
- Patrick doesn’t provide any way to find or calculate B. It’s assumed to be clear from the last.
- Key Calculations:
- Heel Length = SLL ÷ 4
- Counter Point = SLL ÷ 5
- Point X is defined in a couple different ways:
- as the point on the featherline intersecting a line drawn 90° to A to B
- as the point on the featherline intersection a line drawn tangent to B along A-B-I, in other words, so the angles toward the toe and toward the instep are equal