Paul Parkman Making Video
YouTube video
- tape last
- pattern from last forme
- cuts slits in the pattern pieces
- draws broguing in pencil
- clicking knife with scalpel on one end and scratch awl on other
- skiving by hand with Tina-style knife
- burns skived edges over open flame
- broguing by hand with punches
- machine stitching
- flat-table machine, not post bed
- uppers appear symmetrical, but not sure
- calls the last the “cast”
- two days on the last to take shape
- calls it “Goodyear welt”, but it’s handwelted
- reverse welt
- piercing from outside in
- some kind of looped stitch
- leather filler through waist to ball
- cork beneath ball and toes
- extensive skiving of cork and rand
- lots of excess welt trimmed off
- stamp outsole with a press
- it’s a Norvegese stitch on the outside
- channeled outsole
- saddle stitched outsoles
- calls it a “Goodyear welt stitch”
- it’s double Norvegese/chain stitched: welt to midsole and midsole to outsole
- shows hand-painted outsoles by artists
- hole as a unit with rubber end already installed
- trimmed to size and pressed
- cobbler machine to sand heel and sole
- hand fudging
- “primer” coat over sole and heel
- decorative tacks into sole and heel
- hand dyed the upper
- “any color is possible”
- dark magenta full brogues
- full length sock liner
- hand polishing