Shoegazing podcast episode with Hiro Yanagimachi
Notes
Personal History
- twenty years since opening shop
- still building made to order system
- worked as industrial designer
- couldn’t control everything in a big industry
- didn’t foresee becoming a maker, expected to work more on design
- deciding to go to England to learn not a difficult decision
- “I could not respect the shoes made in Japan.”
- evening class at college to learn handwelted
- worked as lastmaker at Lobb, short period but very important
Bespoke in 1990s Japan
- 1999, perhaps 2 or 3 makers were doing bespoke men’s shoes
- handmade, but not bespoke
- orders from stores
- “bespoke” measurements by salespeople in shoe stores
- never heard about a lastmaker
- now over 50 bespoke makers in Japan today
- early names:
- [first: cannot tell]
- Kenji Suzuki of Spigola
Rise of Bespoke Shoes in Japan
- men’s fashion magazine interviews introduced Hiro
- fashion for high-quality shoes then
- famous shoe magazine Last
- “quite big wave”
- some shoe lovers wanted to become shoe makers
- some schools opened
- gradual growth
- some went abroad: England, Italy, France
- some stayed in Japan to learn
What Makes Japan Unique
- simple: many places to learn, but less opportunity to work, to had to start their own businesses
- each shoemaker small, quite weak, somehow manage to survive
- so: generally smaller workshops
- Europe has longer-established trade, famous businesses with loyal customers
- The Japanese scene is supported by individual effort and passion rather than companies or cultures.
- sometimes put too much effort in
- make shoes because they love shoes
International Customers
- common for Japanese makers
- but some don’t have many
- need to communicate in English, but some who don’t speak English so well make great shoes for international customers
- making shoes the main part, but communicating a key to success
- social media
- Instagram the most popular
- direct contact with customers
- smartphones
Too many bespoke makers?
- yes
- not just in Japan, but worldwide
- have to leave the workshop to go abroad and meet customers
- have to develop the bespoke market
- have to introduce ourselves
- promotion
Advice for New Japanese Shoemakers
- new or established, have a reason for customers to chose you
- creativity of shoes, lineup of services, pricing, etc.
- focus on detail, but don’t forget to see the whole shoe business
- balance making and selling
Future
- hope for more business stability
- hope for more international customers
- hope the market will grow
- EU and Japan free trade helps
- more shoemakers going abroad for trunk shows