YouTube video by Siroeno Yosui showing the making of black Oxford boots width fiddleback waists
- 0:15 clicking
-
1:15 closeups of lasts
- leather build-up
- extension pieces for boot height
- backpart-forepart parting
-
1:20 crimping over the last
- tacks the tongue to the top plane, then down the sides along the instep
- 1:47 lining clicking
- 2:11 crimping the lining over the last
- 2:38 skiving
-
3:10 closing
- beading along facing curve and topline
- 6:22 removing lining from last
-
7:48 insoles
- 360° channel
- deep fiddleback waist
- 360° holdfast
- pre-pierces holes
-
11:36 heel stiffeners and toe puffs
- from same hide
- skiving by hand
- pre-formed on last
-
13:58 lasting
- re-wets the heel stiffeners before pasting and inserting
- starts at toe
- [skips suddenly to nearly completed heel]
- lots of copper tacks
- 15:00 toe lining and puffs
- 16:03 toe box shaping
- 16:38 vamp lasting
- [skips suddenly to nearly done]
- hammers the tacks over in toward the center line
- covers in plastic
-
17:30 making coad
- pours into water and kneads
- high shine
-
18:15 thread making
- curved needles
- 18:48 welting
-
21:00 filling
- cork sheet
- cut from paper pattern
- four total layers
- wood shanks
- first sheet covers the entire cavity from heel to toe
- wood shanks cemented down
- second sheet again runs heel to toe
- third sheet over waist, skived at forepart, arched with rasp
-
22:43 outsoles
- traces the shoe on the hide
- wets with brush around lines to be cut
- tempers submerged, then wrapped in towel
- skives down through waist
- carves fishtail of fiddleback line into top, spread it, bevels it
- hammers over a form to make the ridge
- nails into the heel seat
- hidden channels
- cuts very slowly, backhand
- cuts the groove a few millimeters in from the lip
- marks welt stitch spacing with a fudge
- curved needles
- square awl
- no hand leather or awl handle wrapping shown
-
27:12 heel stock
- heel lifts and top lifts from stock
- soaks all the heel lifts
- 27:30 closing the channel
- 27:52 bottom burnishing
-
28:10 heel building
- pounds the lifts on a block
- marks shape from paper pattern on each lift
- split lift cut from heel lift stock
- deeply angled skive into the middle of the split lift
- no darts in the split lift
- cements the lifts
- trims each lift as he goes
- checks pitch-spring balance on a board
- nails the last lift
- then does nails in between and clips them proud
- top lift into proud nail shanks
-
31:02 finishing
- rasp, glass, sandpaper
- wets before glassing
- slightly angled heel back
- deeply concave heel breast
- slicks with finger wrapped in cloth
- rounds edges with rasp
- burnishing irons
- dunks in water to slightly cool before using
- edge iron
- bottom wheels
- Fiebing’s bottle
- black wax
- fudge over stitches
- 38:39 outsole and top lift finishing
- flakes in hot water — shellac?
- 37:23 removing plastic
-
37:36 delasting
- white powder seen on last
-
38:02 sock liner
- heat branded logo
- 38:19 treeing
- 38:34 photographs