stitch connecting a quarter to the vamp, also running through any corresponding linings and reinforcements
Stay stitches are often made with thicker thread and longer stitch length to give more strength to the connection when the quarters are fully opened. They often serve as a decorative element, akin to bar tacks. Especially on Derbies.
Stay stitches are sometimes hand sewn even when the rest of an upper is closed by sewing machine.
