YouTube video by Kirby Allison showing foot measurement at Canons
Notes
- checking last pair on feet
- ball
- vamp
- topline
- 80/20 fit
- most input from the maker’s process
- some from questions and issues raised
- goal: snug, but not something you have to break in
- three or four different foot types cover most
- checks the clip of the heel
- looks into the shoe for darker areas imprinted on insole
- checks bottom of outsole for even wear
- rec: wear a couple dry days first, to get grit into pores of leather
- measuring book
- was trained by Terry Moore, learned his method, adapted from there
- does some on- and off-weight
-
foot draft
- make sure shins straight up and down
- has stand
- turns up cuffs
- perpendicular pencil in hand
- traces arch at a varying angle
- usually starts carving bigger foot last
- size stick measurements, tracing jaws on paper
- girths
-
straight ball girth
- asks to lift forefoot
- little tension on tape, slightly let out
- marks tape position on paper
- angled ball girth
- waist girth just behind large metatarsals
- most important: pull heel back from instep
- could have as much space as you want in front of metatarsals
- discussed allowances generally
-
straight ball girth
- has sit
- important: twist of the foot, discernible from outline
- retakes
- was trained to put foot on knee to completely remove weight
- changed from that, since foot rarely in that position
- usually 1/8 to 1/4 difference
- active sportsmen may have more muscular feet
-
instep girth
- search for bone
- notes history of instep sensitivity
- must match angle up from toes to ankle in last
- at highest point
-
long heel
- holds tape on the bone from taking instep girth, swings the other end of the tape around
- instep
- short heel
- more angle along MTP joints → can do a slimmer toe shape in the last
- soccer players can have girthier dominant feet
- people doing wait training can have dramatic differences between on- and off-weight
- intense runners can have similar differences, especially in forefoot
- diet: swelling
- ill-fitted shoe at heel: makes ankles swell
- after noting complaint about some chiseled shoes impinging big toe, checks for stiff big toe
- instep girth at metatarsal-cuboid joint on outside
- usually about 1/8 differences left and right
- usually slight length difference
- ladies’ feet closer to pairs than men’s
- move foot to side on page
- ankle height, inside and outside
- checks shape of Achilles tendon
- markings for fleshy points, other features
- focus on making the outline three-dimensional
- for really fleshy feet, have to go under measure
- palpates under toes
- on the same level? esp. with high insteps
- insole a leather orthotic
- but shoe must stand flat on ground
- main difference to ready to wear: contoured insole
-
Haglund’s deformity on heel
- calcium deposit
- perhaps from driving
- esp. drivers of manual cars
- slightly turned up toes on left side
- asks whether toes sometimes touch insides of shoes
- roughly sketches shape of heel
- when carving, starts with heel shape and bottom of last