YouTube video by Hand-Welted Shoes UK
Notes
- can take days to welt a pair starting out
- premade welt
- 17 mm wide
- 2.5 mm thick
- 90 degree one edge
- wider welt
- 25mm
- mostly for boots
- hard to get around toes of shoes
- thread
- Somac Linen Thread 6/18 R.P. Waxed
- adds coad
- keeps coad in jar in water
- coat is chalky white
- twisted wire bristles
- from 0.4 mm spring wire
- ends in vise
- twist loop end in drill driver
- thread length: linear length around holdfast times five
- sewing
- skips the first hole near the skived edge of the welt
- “taught method”: pierce from inside out
- he broke a lot of awls this way
- he pierces from the outside in
- runs the awl back through the pre-pierced hole from the inside out first
- wriggles the awl a lot
- if you’re going to miss, miss by going under the pre-pierced hole
- puts the inside bristle through first, after withdrawing awl
- pre-curves bristles
- can move welt to side to push bristles through
- uses pliers to pull through
- pulls the thread already through backward to pull the other bristle through
- hammers each stitch
- place welt so bevel rests on the front face of the holdfast
- keep distance the same so welt protrudes evenly all the way around
- gives slack around toe
- if struggle to welt the seat, peg it