carréducker

London, England, United Kingdom-based bespoke shoe company, school, and distributor founded by James Ducker and Deborah Carré

Leather Selection

Insole

https://carreducker.blogspot.com/2011/12/leather-we-use-insole-shoulders.html

Baker insole shoulder

Gents’ Shoes and Boots: 7-9 iron

Lighter Gents’ and Ladies’: 5-7 iron. Harder to feather.

Cut along the grain, not across.

Buy roughed or glass the grain. Take off rough on the flesh side.

Toe Puffs

https://carreducker.blogspot.com/2011/12/leather-we-use-toe-puffstiffener-belly.html

Baker belly, 3-4 iron

Heel Stiffeners

https://carreducker.blogspot.com/2011/12/leather-we-use-toe-puffstiffener-belly.html

Ladies’ and Most Men’s: same as toe puffs

Heavier Shoes and Boots: Baker upper shoulder, 4-6 iron

Riding Boots: sewn over, only skived for seaming

Outsoles

https://carreducker.blogspot.com/2012/04/the-leather-we-use-3-sole-bends.html

Baker bends

cut with grain, from head toward tail

Have them pre-cut by the tannery, which offers three standard sizes. Keep a whole bend for odd large sizes.

About 5.5mm thick.

For thicker soles, buy thicker bends.

Also recommend Rendenbach.

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