German-language YouTube video of Ibrahim Demir making handwelt Oxford shoes, with occasional explanation by the maker
Notes
- checking wooden last against Harris mat impression
- cork layer on bottom of last, nailed to last
- layer of leather between cork, turned up around edges of last
- cut away along featherline
- [Is that the leather sock liner for the cork footbed?]
- insole
- cut with shears from hide
- JR leather
- sanded on cobbler’s cone
- nailed on top of cork to bottom of last
- folds the edge of the insole up over the cork
- sharpening Tina-style knife
- trimming the edge bit by bit
- two-three mm in
- knife at an angle out from center line of shoe
- turns up the edge
- feather knife to cut away edge at about 45°
- 6mm wide second line also with wing dividers
- steels knife
- knife again angled out from the center line of the shoe
- pairs 45° out behind the holdfast, creating a long strip
- welts also around the heel
- prepiercing holes with curved awl
- dipping in wax repeatedly
- looks like Hirschkleber on the stiffeners
- lasting
- wire nails
- first three in toe, then to heel
- definitely Hirschkleber bottle in the background
-
7:19 welt making
- on buffing wheel after dyeing
- cuts own
- dyed on top
-
7:29 welting
- glove on left hand
- wetting with a brush
- looks like saddle stitch
- metal shank
- cork sheets
- outseaming
- JR outsole
- marks outseaming hole spacing with dividers
- channel with Tina-style knife
- awl from top to bottom
- touching in wax
- lots of twisting
- half-moon curved needles
- strap through a wooden board on lap
- heeling
- hammers down lifts with cone of last on bench as anvil
- crimps the sides with lasting pliers
- trims with sanding belt and hand shears
- JR top lifts
- pegging awl
- waxes each peg before inserting
- edging and sole finishing
- marking for brass toe nails
- starts nails with back of French hammer, drives home with front
- hand staining black
- delasting
- with hook on strap