a welted construction that attaches a shoe upper to a shoe bottom via an intermediary welt sewn directly to an insole, which is often carved to accept the roll of the upper material over the featherline and the stitchline
Handwelting can be done entirely with hand tools and predates the Goodyear welting machine and process, which mechanized a variation on it.
Insole Preparation
A thick slab of vegetable-tanned leather is tacked to the bottom of the last, trimmed to follow the featherline, and carved so the upper can be sewn to the bottom of the insole once lasted.
How the insole is carved varies by style, construction method, and maker.
Outside Feather
In many handwelting styles, a rim of leather is cut, gouged, or sanded out of the edge of the insole, creating room for the upper, lining, and any stiffener to wrap under the insole. The thinned edge of the insole is called a feather.
Some makers do not cut outside feathers, for some or all models.
Examples:
- Role Club Engineer Boots 1
- Role Club Engineer Boots 2
- Steve Doudaklian Remaking Justin Elephant-Skin Boots
Some Goiser and Norvegese styles also omit any outside feather.
Rib
All handwelting styles stitch the upper to the insole. But they vary in whether and how they prepare a rib of leather through which to stitch.
Leather Holdfast
In many handwelting styles, a second line is marked within the line for the outside feather. The inside of this inner line is then channeled, leaving a rib of leather called a holdfast standing proud of the bottom of the insole.
Split Rib
Some makers create a rib for sewing by splitting the outside edge of the insole and turning it up. For example:
Plunge Straight Through
Some makers don’t cut the leather to make a rib at all, but instead plunge their awls directly into the bottom of the insole at angles to emerge from the edge or outside feather. For example:
- Unnamed Indian shoemaker for IBEX shoes
- George Koleff
- Rollinson describes this method first in Section XII, Chapter III of Boots and Shoes
Hole Piercing
Many makers pierce sewing holes through the holdfast or other rib of the insole before lasting the upper. Others wait until the upper is lasted and pierce through insole, lining, any stiffener, and upper all at once.
Stitching
Makers stitch insoles to uppers, or inseam stitch, in a variety of styles.
Saddle Stitching
Many makers saddle stitch using two bristles or needles to sew alternating running stitches through the holes.
Some makers also reinforce their saddle stitches by winding one thread around the other one or more times on the inside of the insole. Others stitch so that each stitch forms an overhand knot within the seam.
Some makers thread gimp or some other reinforcement within the stitches on the inside, particularly around the tips of pointy-toed shoes where entry holes on the inside of the rib come closer together.
Example: David White
Lockstitching
Some makers lockstitch uppers to insoles using a jerk needle awl. For example: