book on lastmaking and patterning by Wade Motawi
Last Design
1. The Last Is First
2. Last Features and Functions
3. Shoe Last Designs
4. The Footwear Last Design Process
5. The Geometry of Lasts
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Suspected Errata:
- Page 88, Step 16
“Point L is 1/3
%of theballheel width - 5%.” - Page 78, Diagram: The angle 78° should be drawn between NF and EF, rather than between NF and a line perpendicular to CB at D. The angle drawn is closer to 72° than 78°.
- Page 88, Step 16
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step-by-step AKA/WMS tutorial
Ball
- ball at 62% of last length
- ball width = ball girth / 3
- ball width line 80° to length line
- evenly distribute ball width across length line
- add an additional 24% of half the ball width to the lateral side
Heel
- width at 17% of foot length
- mark reference point 60% along length of ball width line
- heel line of symmetry through this reference point
- heel width = (60% of adjusted ball width) + 2 mm
- heel width line perpendicular to symmetry line, passing through heel point
- evenly distribute heel width across line of symmetry
Heel Curve
- draw lines through outside points on of ball and heel width lines to bottom
- draw semicircle through heel width points
- mark point on heel line of symmetry back from the center of heel distance: (heel width / 3) * 0.95
- draw semicircle through back of heel point on heel line of symmetry and new point
- “sketch” heel curve between the semicircles
Forepart
- medial toe point on line 94° from ball width line, another line perpendicular to length line
- lateral point point … 78° …
- small toe on line from ball width line to toe line
- distance: foot length * 0.2
- back from the line
Arch
- reference point on heel width line 60% of heel width from inside
- two lives:
- one connecting new reference point to inside ball point
- one connecting inside heel point to intersection of ball width line and length line