Gaziano and Girling Bespoke Measurements

YouTube video by Kirby Allison showing foot measurement by Daniel Wegan for Gaziano & Girling

Notes

• look at shoes they’re wearing
  • ask if they like them or problematic
  • looser or tighter fit?
  • pronating?
  • wear toes → steel toe tips?
• outline
  • on paper form
  • feeling the foot with hands for fleshy and bony parts
  • 2:09 tracing block
    • no variance in angle of pencil
  • then 45° angle of arch by hand, with pen
    • doesn’t have to be 45°, but know the angle
• semi-weight-bearing girths
  • straight ball girth and angled ball girth
  • “straight ball”
    • lays the tape on the paper and marks it
    • tug to see if flexy or rigid
  • classic joint measure
    • inside joint to base of little toe
    • angle, so less accurate, trustworthy
  • unnamed measure

    • just under the waist measurement

    • from the outside joint to just behind the inside joint

  • ever-evolving measurement process
  • always good to have more than you need
  • wait measure
  • measurements should be easy to take
  • instep girth
  • must be applicable to a last
  • instep girth
    • puts mini L-square on the joint on top of the foot, measures up to the instep point
  • if outline is close and circumferences, 80-90% there for comfort
  • additional measurement show volume distribution to avoid creasing, distortion
  • to avoid foot and upper fighting each other, even without pain
  • should feel like broken-in pair of shoes
  • break-in should be minimal
  • high instep measurement / “husk” (maybe Swedish)
  • long heel
    • position on instep
  • short heel
• profile gauge for ball and sometimes instep
  • volume distribution around joint
  • traces the gauge on the paper
• heights
  • two mini l-squares held back to back
  • big joint
  • halfway down big toe, at highest point (unless hammertoe)
• creasing
  • sometimes dream shoe design doesn’t harmonize with foot, see creasing
  • if creases just by putting it on, something’s wrong
• stands up
  • outline again
    • see how much expands under load
  • stick length, marks on paper
  • ankle bone height with tape measure
  • joint measurements under load
    • usually out 1/4 inch difference non-weight
  • takes highest point height again
  • shows where to taper in at topline
  • 45° arch tracing
  • Bic 4-color pen
    • red: seated
    • black: standing
    • where doesn’t expand, blend together
  • inside ankle bone height
    • how to cut pattern
    • high topline, but not interfering
  • ankle girth for boots with tape
• would do different lasts for boots, oxfords, casual shoes, but would measure the foot the same way
• no pronation:
  • usually distribution fairly even
  • can often wear off-the-rack
• but people with problems often come for bespoke
  • e.g. uneven wear on inside or outside
• profile
  • paper held vertical, traced with pen
  • heel and top of foot
• foot impression
  • carbon paper
  • 13:43 traces outline on the carbon, as well
  • marks lines for joints
  • looking for pressure points and load distribution
  • physique overall usually represented in foot
    • tall, slim, bony: usually feet same
    • fuller: feet, too
  • how to construct insole pattern
• notes on particularities and requests
• styling
  • not everything works for everyone
  • some big guys want slimmer shoes, but may not harmonize

  • working with what you have

  • accepting what you look like and trying to work with that

• making fit not hard, but making what customer had in mind harder
• interpretation of customer’s wishes
• first fitting: stick to method, make something that fits