YouTube video by Kazuma Nishimura
Notes
- folds the upper up, then lasts the lining completely separately
- mostly lasts directly with a stapler, but switches to tacks for the tips of the toes
- uses needle-nose pliers to split pleats
- applies glue to the insole, then lasts the lining onto it, then removes tacks
-
stacked heel counter
- 1.5 mm veg-tan leather layers
- second layer to make thicker around back of seat, glued to the lining
- longer piece wraps around and over the first, extending further forward than the heel breast
- doesn’t premake the counter and insert it. Lifts the upper, lasts the lining, and builds the counter on the lining.
- pulls the longer heel counter piece toward the toe to tension
- lasts the counter with tacks, then staples down around the outside
- wiggles the nose of the staple gun back and forth while pushing the leather toward the inside
- uses a liquid hardener
- leather toe puff
- adds a narrow piece over the tip of the toe
- doesn’t reach to the sides of the toe
- makes a second layer, in more of a usual toe puff shape
- reaches back further than the first piece
- glues the second piece over the first piece and the lining
- uses lots of hardener again
-
side linings
- uses clear plastic sheet to pattern over the last
- attaches with rubber cement
- blends stiffener transitions with sanding block
- applies glue all over the lining and stiffeners as he flips down the upper
- cuts a groove out of the heel counter at the back to fit the backseam of the upper
- roughly lasts the upper over the heel seat, trims
- glues the upper to the lining under the featherline, like the lining
- trims remaining pleats past staples with flush cutters
- rewets the vamp of the upper before lasting