YouTube video series of Kazuma Nishimura making bespoke shoes
Part 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_-UOJBCa2s
- 8:17 pictures showing nails run in up through the welt into the insole, behind the inseam line
- 8:30 pegging the waist with bamboo toothpicks, like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094PFJ5TF
- he pushes a cheap awl in by hand to make holes for the pegs
- 9:34 compresses the leather for the split lift / rand in a vice
- pull through a Japanese-style plane to split
- hammers on cutting board to round
- staples in place
- 1:30 the rand is only on the very inside of the heel, not on the outer perimeter with the welt
- then he nails a rand level with the welt around it
- pegs the rand down, too
- 12:20 trims away excess upper and lining past the welt with a french edger
- paste on holdfast, puts leather pieces on top [reinforcement+filler?]
- double-stick tape to mount the shank
- plastic sheet for the shank cover [pattern?]
- cuts shank covers from leather
- cork sheets to fill the very back of the heel behind the shank covers
- then more cork sheet over the back of the shank cover