YouTube video by Kazuma Nishimura showing the making of Oxford shoes entirely by hand, including hand stitches for closing
Notes
- uses a pounce wheel to mark hole spacing
- bench-mounted stitching pony
- jaws held apart with a spring halfway down
- board with square slot clamped to the bench
- tension the jaws by pushing down through the hole in the mount until the shoulders of the square hole push them closed
- straight boards for jaws, with slats of foam within the tops for clearance
- 32:38 while trimming lining at the topline, pins the waste of the lining to the bench with an awl, then pulls the upper against the awl while clipping with side cutters
- tacks the closed quarters to the last by putting tacks into the cone through stitch holes in the facings
- glues the vamp to the quarters with the quarters tacked to the lasts — upper fitting on the last
- abrades the quarter seam seam allowance with sandpaper before gluing up
- 47:53 uses a small flat head screwdriver to lay each stitch consistently
- sews the vamp lining to the quarter lining after closing the vamp to the quarters
- 59:48 parts and demonstration of the stitching vise