Sam Schmidt YouTube video showing the making of derby boots for his wife
- foot tracing seated
- last build-up
- glass slippers
-
patterning
- geometric method
- uses a fixture to set wing dividers to different lengths for marking allowances
-
clicking
- uses thumbtacks to hold down pattern pieces
-
blocking
- tacks the ends of the straps to the lasts
- 5-in-1 to trim
- skiving by hand and with a bell skiver
- stiffeners
- closing
- rolled edges
- post-bed sewing machine
- melts thread ends with lighter
- insole prep
- feather with utility knife
- holdfast with what looks like a French edger
- 270° holdfast
- rasps the featherline around the heel to bevel
- marks the holes with Sharpie
- coats the feather with Skidmore’s beeswax compound before holing
- holes from the outside in
- hardware
- hand setter
- all eyelets
- laces all the way up
- soaks in water
- uses pliers to cut darts in heel counter
- lasting
- tacks heel first
- drafts
- appears to be using common nails
- narrow lasting pliers
- puts a bunch of nails through the holdfast around the toe, without any liner or upper leather pulled over
- wire lasts the toes
- look like celastic toe puffs
- uses an eye bolt to tighten the wire lasting
- welting
- wearing deerskin gloves
- pierces from the outside in
- looks to be lockstitching with a straight jerk needle
- trims excess with the same French edger
- spring steel shank
- cork sheet filler
- delasts before filling
- switches to cobbler’s anvil
- clinch nails the heel seat
- rand heel looks to be a lift-shaped cut of black upper leather
- nails the first layer down
- thick leather outsole
- 5-in-1 to trim again, press welt
- finishing machine for edges
- curved-needle stitcher
- brass dome-head nails in the seat again
- stacked leather heel
- Vibram rubber top lift
- cuts the breast with a Stanley knife
- glasses the edges
- short sock liner
- edge beveler on welt, heel seat, and edge of outsole
- black edge dressing