rim of material cut away from the edge of an insole
Purposes
A feather creates space for the material of the upper as well as any stiffeners and linings to lay in, creating a flatter surface on the bottom of the insole.
In handwelted construction, feathering also creates the inside face of the holdfast through which inseam stitches pass.
Depth
Makers differ in how deeply they carve away leather to make a holdfast. Generally, depths vary roughly between one third and one half of the thickness of the insole. The depth of the feather is often similar to the depth of the groove or trench for any holdfast.
Width
Makers cut feathers to different widths, and often vary the distance from the featherline of the insole in different parts of the shoe, nearer to the edge around the forefoot and closer in through the arch and waist.
Shapes
Most makers seem to make outside feathers rectangular, cutting in straight from the outside of the insole. They may mark a line within the insole, incise that line, spread it with a bone folder or channel opener, then cut the rim of leather away from the outside in with a knife or specialized tool such as a feather knife. The effect is a bit like a stairstep at the edge of the insole.
Examples:
- Marcell Mrsan’s “How to Make a Shoe” using a feather plough
- Siroeno Yosui Embossed Cordovan Derbies
- Carréducker “Learn Handsewn Shoe Making”
- White’s Boots Drifter using a handcrank machine
- Kustom Kraft (Dennis Kieback) Red Ankle Boots
- Kustom Kraft (Dennis Kieback) Tall Brown Boots
Some makers feather the edge at a 45-degree or similar angle, rather than cutting perpendicular into the side. This leaves a feather in the shape of a large bevel edge.
Examples: