shoemaker stitch where stitches on one or both sides of the hole are twisted and sewn through, creating loops that lie at the entries to the hole
Under some circumstances and for special purposes, this seam is locked upon one or both sides, as shewn upon Plate 67. It will be observed that the single lock is produced by passing the thread through the top loop of the previous stitch before pulling it in. The natural consequence is that the threads are interlocked upon the top surface; this may be repeated upon the other side and a double-lock produced. This form of sewing, however, is not by any means common, and is really of rather doubtful advantage; but in a degree it is a reproduction of the lock-stitch of the sewing machine.
— Swaysland, Boot and Shoe Design and Manufacture, page 181