Boot and Shoe Design and Manufacture

1905 book by Edward J.C. Swaysland

published by Joseph Tebbutt, Northampton

I. Historical

• Among all nations, at all times, the foot appears to have been a suffering victim on the altar of vanity…

• The greatest progress in shoemaking has been achieved during the last fifty years.

• modern designs appear to trend towards evere simplicity and the perfect fitting of the foot…

• Probably the most original design of the last century was the elastic side boot, and this was owning to the invention of the fabric.

• A strip continuing a vamp round the back of a shoe was in use at the time of Louis XIV. ; this is the essential principle of the golosh.

• button boot relatively recent
• “bar shoe” (strap across instep)

• Modern methods of construction consist more of applications of machine methods to execute processes hitherto done by hand than the originating of new systems.

• no machine method for making the cordwainers' hand seam

• But we have made in immense strides in the production of footwear for the common people.

II. The Shape and Construction of the Foot

III. Measuring the Foot and Fitting up Lasts for Bespoke

IV. Last Making and Measurements

V. Pattern Designing, Grading, and Making

VI. Upper Stock and Clicking (Cutting)

VII. Upper Fitting and Machining

VIII. Bottom Stock, Cutting and Fitting (Rough Stuff Cutting)

IX. Leather Manufacture

X. Lasting by Hand and Machine

XI. Bottom Making, Laying and Attaching

XII. Finishing by Hand and Machine

XIII. Treeing, Pressing, and Packing Department

XIV. Management and Prime Costing