YouTube video by Lu_Shoemaker showing the making of burgundy ankle boots with brogued toe caps and turned out welt
Notes
- last extends all the way up to leg
- pattern drawn on tape on last
- white or silver pen to mark dark leather
- cuts out with scissors
- notches in lasting allowance
- skiving on flat piece of metal
- straight-edged, broad, delta-shaped skiving knife
- hammers down edges and seams with French hammer
- paper broguing pattern paid over toe caps, punched through
- glues caps to vamps
- post bed sewing machine
- sews right next to edge where quarters meet vamps
- peens eyelets with hand setter
- hits the hand setter with metal French hammer
-
lasting
- mounts over a plastic bag
- tacks toe first
- close pleats on toe before heel
- lots of hammering backstay before tacking hack height through seam
- then to joints
- narrow-beaked lasting pliers
- lasts toe lining first
- lays thin toe puff over lasted lining
- lasts the toe puff
- hammers with back of lasting pliers
- rasps extensively with four-in-hand
- trims
- lots of paste over toe puff and on vamp
- drafts toe
- lots of hammering the vamp over the featherline
- pulls nails out of half the heel at once
- welts from waist into heel to start
- 360 welt
- plunging awl from outside in
- welt is standing up straight
- jerk needle/lockstitch
- loops the final stitch through twice
- turning out
- hard stick over small cutting board on lap
- welt same color as upper
- cork insert cut from sheet
- backhand with half-moon knife
- upper appears to be trimmed off where the welt meets, not turned out
- looks like leather midsoles
- heat gun to reactivate cement
- knee-height anvil with odd curved shape, like an axe head
- trims welt and midsole with short, repeated backhand strokes of knife
- sheet ribbed rubber outsole
- hand outseaming
- straight awl
- saddle stitching
- casting on the top side
- putting the first needle through in the direction of the awl, with the awl still in
- maybe there’s a groove in the awl?
- stitches all the way around
- trims in long strokes, almost in one strip
- cementing heel rand / split lift around ridge on heel of outsole
- heel lifts have four holes drilled out
- sands heel stack with block
- edge iron to paint wax on edges and heel stack
- lighter to all stitch lines
- cuts lining plastic bag at the top before delasting
- slide hammer to drive nails into heel blog through inside