YouTube video by Ken Hishinuma on outseaming
Notes
-
thread making
- ramie
- wax: pine resin, oil, wax
- doesn’t wax tapered ends
- wax on round leather patch
- color of affects colors thread
- can yellow white thread
- old shoes have quite yellow thread
- dyed the thread for more yellow color
- Irish linen has subtle color and good texture
- ramie: TOSCO Hashijirushi
- his favorite thread
- loops around bench arm rest to wax
- rubs patch back and forth on thread
- burnishes with cloth to remove excess wax and burnish by friction heat
- twists the thread after waxing
- maybe too yellow
- will dull from color of welt and dust
- bamboo shank
- cork filler in forepart
- lays outsole on from toe back to heel
- hammers down lightly around the featherline
- hammers harder through a scrap of insole leather
- whittles backhand with Japanese leather knife
- also forehand around toe
- hidden channel
- fudge wheel on wetted welt
- [appears to mark the stitch line in silver pen]
- normally stitches right next to the upper, to minimize the welt
- deliberately stitching these further out
- many vintage shows stitched further out
- [wiggling the awl back and forth, like a sewing awl]
- not casting this saddle stitch
- square edge on outside, beveled waist on inside
-
beveled waist on inside
- wets edge
- burnishes with stick
- waist iron
- fudge wheel over the stitching
- seam detailer in each groove
- rasps the edges coarsely first
- glasses the rasp marks, pushing the scraper rather than pulling it
- seems to be glassing off quite a bit of material
- 1.5mm wider welt than usual for bespoke
- wanted to make outseam stitching visible from above
- doesn’t think thread too yellow in the end