Siroeno Yosui’s Cordovan Derbies Video

making video by Siroeno Yosui showing Ken Kataoka making shell cordovan derbies

Notes

• clicking
  • white gel pen
  • 30° box cutter
  • lamp directly on the hide
• uppers
  • bell skiver for thin parts
  • Japanese leather knife for the rest
  • hand paint edges
  • machine stitch lines
  • hammer joints
  • small brush with cement
  • punch holes one by one
  • hand set eyes
  • scrape backs of eyes with thumb to check smooth and flat
  • very fine machine stitch
  • edged after closing
• lasting
  • pulls the toe first, tacks
  • couldn’t see if tacked the back first
  • leaves to rest with many tacks
• insoles
  • complete soak after rough cut
  • pulls uppers off lasts
  • dry and pre-bend insoles in a towel
  • copper tacks?
  • trims edge with flat knife in reverse grip
  • coper tacks all the way around the edge, bean flat outward
• counters
  • glassed
  • soaked
  • dry in towel
  • skive with Japanese skiving knife
• 7:48 insoles
  • pull tacks from perimeter
  • brush with water
  • cutting out the feather bevel
    • 7:52 bevel, Japanese knife in reverse grip
    • 8:01 edge bevel with what looks like an S-shaped or bent paring chisel
    • 8:04 back to leather knife, backhand
  • rasp edge
  • feather cut reverse grip
  • open with spreader
  • changed knife
  • burnish feather with wood stick
  • channel cut reverse grip
  • spread
  • wet curved Osborne-looking S-shape knife
  • burnish with stick
  • scrapes off top of holdfast
  • wing dividers to space holes, no lines
  • curved awl from inside
• counters:
  • tack to last, sides
  • pull and tack at heel
• toe puffs
  • leather
  • glass
  • soak
  • flat Japanese-style knife
  • very thin edges
  • brush off
• heel
  • pull counter tacks
  • remove counter
  • powder last, cut around
  • insert heel counters into uppers with glue
• lasting
  • upper back on
  • tacks toe, waist×2
  • last heel, many tacks
  • hammer
  • pull toe tacks
  • last lining
  • cement down
  • cement stifferers
  • last and tack stiffener
  • hammer
  • pull tacks
  • wet stiffener
  • trim backhand to contour
  • drop vamp
  • last and tack
  • many tacks
  • hammer
  • bend tacks flat
  • wrap featherline in plastic, tack down with upper
  • bend tacks flat
• welt
  • soak
  • wax thread
  • 360° handwelt!
  • hammer welt against flat tool
  • trim welt backhand
• fill
  • cork sheet
  • hammer down to make impression, then tear at welt
  • rasp down
  • brush off
  • cement wood shank
  • cork over shank again, trip and rasp
• outsole
  • leather
  • trace shoe to rough cut
  • skive edges, then rasp smooth
  • cement and hammer
  • trim backhand
  • heel nails
  • feather edge backward (!)
  • cut channel backward (!)
  • paper next to vamp to protect while hot fudging
  • very dense outseaming in ridges created by fudger
  • hammer down stitches
  • cement down, hammer
  • burnish bottoms with wood
  • leather heel stack blanks
  • skive rand
  • scrape heel base
  • cement rand
  • rasp
  • cement first heel lift
  • skive flat
  • next life
  • trim again, backhand
  • nail around approximately every quarter-inch
  • trim half the nails flush
  • hammer and cement top lift
  • rasp stack
  • sand
  • trim were meets the arch
  • burnish inside, glass
  • edge dressing with paintbrush
  • sand
  • dip hot tool into water just before burnishing
  • melt black wax with tool
  • hand polish with fingers wrapped in cloth
  • strip of sandpaper
  • bottom dye
  • melt shellac in coffee mug?
  • wipe excess, burnish with fingers wrapped in cloth
  • toe taps with screws
  • cut plastic wrap with knife at welt
  • unlast
  • sock liner embossed with their name

Time Offsets

• 0:12 inspecting leather
• 0:19 tracing patterns
• 0:28 clicking
• 1:33 skiving
• 2:03 edge painting
• 2:11 sewing and closing
• 5:03 lasting to set shape
• 5:53 insole clicking
• 6:27 delasting
• 6:41 insole mounting
• 7:12 insole trimming
• 7:29 insole tacking to set shape
• 7:47 heel stiffener clicking
• 8:01 heel stiffener glassing and soaking
• 8:20 heel stiffener skiving
• 8:44 removing insole tacks
• 8:55 final insole trimming and rasping
• 9:29 outside feather cutting
• 9:58 insole heel beveling
• 10:05 outside feather burnishing
• 10:14 inside feather cutting
• 10:31 inside feather burnishing
• 10:35 holdfast shaving
• 10:42 inseam hole marking
• 10:47 inseam hole piercing
• 11:10 heel stiffener tacking to set shape
• 11:44 toe puff clicking
• 11:54 toe puff glassing
• 11:58 toe puff skiving
• 12:39 removing heel stiffener
• 12:48 powdering the last
• 12:57 inserting heel stiffener
• 13:22 lasting uppers
• 14:20 inserting toe puff
• 15:22 toe upper lasting
• 15:48 covering in plastic
• 16:04 welt preparation
• 16:11 thread making
• 16:34 welting
• 17:29 removing tacks
• 17:40 welt beating
• 17:58 welt trimming
• 18:20 cork sheet filling
• 19:10 wood shanking
• 19:21 cork sheet filling
• 19:52 outsole clicking
• 20:21 outsole soaking
• 20:38 outsole skiving, rasping
• 21:10 outsole mounting
• 21:27 outsole trimming
• 21:51 outsole hidden channel cutting
• 22:22 outsole stitching channel cutting
• 22:35 fudging
• 22:50 thread making
• 23:01 outseaming
• 24:05 hidden channel closing
• 24:23 outsole burnishing
• 24:34 rand building
• 25:33 heel stack building
• 26:25 heel lift mounting
• 27:09 heel shaping
• 27:22 heel breasting
• 27:47 outsole shaping
• 27:57 heel and edge dyeing
• 28:33 heel and edge burnishing
• 30:35 outsole dyeing
• 31:39 outsole edging fudging
• 32:02 toe tap installation
• 32:12 plastic removal
• 32:25 delasting
• 32:35 sock liner clicking, branding, and insertion
• 32:55 finishing
• 33:07 finished shoes