making video by Siroeno Yosui
Notes
- clicking
- white gel pen
- 30° box cutter
- lamp directly on the hide
- uppers
- bell skiver for thin parts
- flat Japanese skiving knife for the rest
- hand paint edges
- machine stitch lines
- hammer joints
- small brush with cement
- punch holes one by one
- hand set eyes
- scrape backs of eyes with thumb to check smooth and flat
- very fine machine stitch
- edged after closing
- lasting
- pulls the toe first, tacks
- couldn’t see if tacked the back first
- leaves to rest with many tacks
- insoles
- complete soak after rough cut
- pulls uppers off lasts
- dry and pre-bend insoles in a towel
- copper tacks?
- trims edge with flat knife in reverse grip
- coper tacks all the way around the edge, bean flat outward
- counters
- glassed
- soaked
- dry in towel
- skive with Japanese skiving knife
-
7:48 insoles
- pull tacks from perimeter
- brush with water
- cutting out the feather bevel
- rasp edge
- feather cut reverse grip
- open with spreader
- changed knife
- burnish feather with wood stick
- channel cut reverse grip
- spread
- wet curved Osborne-looking S-shape knife
- burnish with stick
- scrapes off top of holdfast
- wing dividers to space holes, no lines
- curved awl from inside
- counters:
- tack to last, sides
- pull and tack at heel
- toe puffs
- leather
- glass
- soak
- flat Japanese-style knife
- very thin edges
- brush off
- heel
- pull counter tacks
- remove counter
- powder last, cut around
- insert heel counters into uppers with glue
- lasting
- upper back on
- tacks toe, waist×2
- last heel, many tacks
- hammer
- pull toe tacks
- last lining
- cement down
- cement stifferers
- last and tack stiffener
- hammer
- pull tacks
- wet stiffener
- trim backhand to contour
- drop vamp
- last and tack
- many tacks
- hammer
- bend tacks flat
- wrap featherline in plastic, tack down with upper
- bend tacks flat
- welt
- soak
- wax thread
- 360° handwelt!
- hammer welt against flat tool
- trim welt backhand
- fill
- cork sheet
- hammer down to make impression, then tear at welt
- rasp down
- brush off
- cement wood shank
- cork over shank again, trip and rasp
- outsole
- leather
- trace shoe to rough cut
- skive edges, then rasp smooth
- cement and hammer
- trim backhand
- heel nails
- feather edge backward (!)
- cut channel backward (!)
- paper next to vamp to protect while hot fudging
- very dense outseaming in ridges created by fudger
- hammer down stitches
- cement down, hammer
- burnish bottoms with wood
- leather heel stack blanks
- skive rand
- scrape heel base
- cement rand
- rasp
- cement first heel lift
- skive flat
- next life
- trim again, backhand
- nail around approximately every quarter-inch
- trim half the nails flush
- hammer and cement top lift
- rasp stack
- sand
- trim were meets the arch
- burnish inside, glass
- edge dressing with paintbrush
- sand
- dip hot tool into water just before burnishing
- melt black wax with tool
- hand polish with fingers wrapped in cloth
- strip of sandpaper
- bottom dye
- melt shellac in coffee mug?
- wipe excess, burnish with fingers wrapped in cloth
- toe taps with screws
- cut plastic wrap with knife at welt
- unlast
- sock liner embossed with their name
Time Offsets
- 0:12 inspecting leather
- 0:19 tracing patterns
- 0:28 clicking
- 1:33 skiving
- 2:03 edge painting
- 2:11 sewing and closing
- 5:03 lasting to set shape
- 5:53 insole clicking
- 6:27 delasting
- 6:41 insole mounting
- 7:12 insole trimming
- 7:29 insole tacking to set shape
- 7:47 heel stiffener clicking
- 8:01 heel stiffener glassing and soaking
- 8:20 heel stiffener skiving
- 8:44 removing insole tacks
- 8:55 final insole trimming and rasping
- 9:29 outside feather cutting
- 9:58 insole heel beveling
- 10:05 outside feather burnishing
- 10:14 inside feather cutting
- 10:31 inside feather burnishing
- 10:35 holdfast shaving
- 10:42 inseam hole marking
- 10:47 inseam hole piercing
- 11:10 heel stiffener tacking to set shape
- 11:44 toe puff clicking
- 11:54 toe puff glassing
- 11:58 toe puff skiving
- 12:39 removing heel stiffener
- 12:48 powdering the last
- 12:57 inserting heel stiffener
- 13:22 lasting uppers
- 14:20 inserting toe puff
- 15:22 toe upper lasting
- 15:48 covering in plastic
- 16:04 welt preparation
- 16:11 thread making
- 16:34 welting
- 17:29 removing tacks
- 17:40 welt beating
- 17:58 welt trimming
- 18:20 cork sheet filling
- 19:10 wood shanking
- 19:21 cork sheet filling
- 19:52 outsole clicking
- 20:21 outsole soaking
- 20:38 outsole skiving, rasping
- 21:10 outsole mounting
- 21:27 outsole trimming
- 21:51 outsole hidden channel cutting
- 22:22 outsole stitching channel cutting
- 22:35 fudging
- 22:50 thread making
- 23:01 outseaming
- 24:05 hidden channel closing
- 24:23 outsole burnishing
- 24:34 rand building
- 25:33 heel stack building
- 26:25 heel lift mounting
- 27:09 heel shaping
- 27:22 heel breasting
- 27:47 outsole shaping
- 27:57 heel and edge dyeing
- 28:33 heel and edge burnishing
- 30:35 outsole dyeing
- 31:39 outsole edging fudging
- 32:02 toe tap installation
- 32:12 plastic removal
- 32:25 delasting
- 32:35 sock liner clicking, branding, and insertion
- 32:55 finishing
- 33:07 finished shoes