YouTube video by So Tsuchiya showing lasting
Notes
- uppers pre-lasted
- pulls all tacks
- folds in lining
- paints adhesive on heel counter on the flat, then lays it in, then paints adhesive on upper
- drafts in same order as pre-lasting
- heel lasting
- checks topline drops from top planes of lasts on both shoes
- tacks through tack allowance of lining
- lasts by first pulling lining, then pulling upper, but tacking together
- hammers and rubs the waist once lasted
- does the inside waist in detail, then the outside
- adds tracks in tack allowance above cuboids, trims excess around heel with leather knife, and wets before heel lasting
- starts at heel point, pleats the inside in detail before moving to the other side
- nails about as close together as they could fit through the heel seat
- wets heel seat after lasting, then hammers down feather and beats the outside
- trims with clicking knife
- 6:58 finishes lasting between waist and heel seat, around heel breast
- first on outside, then inside
- strikes leather with the anvil of his lasting pliers, drives tacks with the top face of the nose
- redoes tacks through the very back of the heel, setting tacks even closer together
- hammers the featherline and waist again
- 9:26 toe lasting
- trims extra lining before lasting it
- sandpapers the feather around the forepart before lasting lining
- brushes on cement before lasting lining
- pulls and twists to lay the lining down
- lasts the lining around the toe without setting tacks, just lasting onto cement
- marks toe puff line
- wetted leather toe puff
- tacks at top twice to hold position and rotation
- pulls and tacks wings first, then toe point
- pleats to the inside first
- hammers the puff with glancing blows going down
- burnishes with hammer face
- hammers feather from bottom to crisp featherline
- 14:15 toe shaping
- all tacks from puff and lining
- trims to inside face of holdfast
- pares with leather knife backhand
- rasps, especially over tack holes at top
- wets upper around forepart
- tacks from balls back to waist before pleating tip
- pleats the tip in one direction first, then the other
- trims to inside face of holdfast
- hammers top of toe, again glancing blows down
- wets upper again
- goes around taking out and replacing tacks once more, setting tacks even closer
- really getting the upper flat over the feather
- hammers all over
- trims to inside face of featherline
- bends tacks all the way around
- uses finger to rub cream or wax onto parts of upper, especially the toe cap and waist
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- 🧑So Tsuchiya🇯🇵