YouTube video by So Tsuchiya showing insole blocking and outseaming
Notes
- 0:46 overview montage done, real start
- outsole pattern has line down center of heel and waist
-
closed channel
- sharpens knife on waterstone before cutting
- cuts the flap with the outsole still flat on a board, not on the last
- hand over the side of the board, pulling backhand
- Japanese leather knife
- cutting bevel up
- has lines marked on the plantar surface for the intended width of the flap
- skives away material through the seat and waist, then rasps
- 3:51 hammers over a molding block
- cements on starting from toe
- hammers down with face of French hammer
- lipped burnishing stick all around the edge with a lot of force
- presses welt to outsole with straight lasting pliers
- wets the welt
-
fudge
- unclear if hot or cold
- pushes around in continuous stroke, not rolling back and forth
- wets the plantar surface, rubs the flap up with a wedge-tipped stick, brushes water underneath
- pleats the flap to bend it back around the toe
- rolls the flap back through the waist
- hammers the exposed area under the flap
- whittles at this point, with the flap up
- knife bevel up and down, depending on direction
- sharp notch where heel seat meets waist
- marks breast line under side of flaps turned up
- spade shaped forepart with notches at transition to waist
- some kind of adjustable-gate gouger to cut channel under flap
- thread making on thigh
-
10:31 outseaming
- twisting the awl
- pre-pierces holes all the way around
- starts at inside heel breast
- flat awl blade in the waist
- square awl on the welt
- dips in wax for every hole
- curved needles
- casts on the bottom
- pulls tight by hand, finger dams around thumbs
- wraps threads around thumbs
- holds needles in mouth
- still holding the awl, despite pre-piercing
- unclear: may have just marked holes around forepart to start, then pierced them while stitching
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