YouTube video showing Terry Kim making a pair of Balmoral boots
- recap ends at 1:00
- white plastic last
Patterning
- last taping
- traces featherline by rubbing
- does a tape pattern of the insole separately first
- marks the joints by holding against straight edge
- tapes the last from the toe back
- lays strips from side to side, smooths down over curves
- marks main axis
- marks the line where measures ball girth
- patterns in pencil on the tape
- lots of compass use for spacing
- splits the tape down the main axis
- takes the toe cap pattern off in two pieces
- cuts slits on bottom for flattening
- takes the vamp pattern off in two pieces
- adds lasting allowance by pricking holes through the tape pattern, then marking off the distance on pattern paper with dividers, connecting the dots freehand
- looks like maybe 25mm lasting allowance
- cuts slits for marking
- punches brogue holes in cardboard patterns
- traces patterns on the grain side of the leather with a white gel pen
- marks the brogue holes
- then punches the broguing
- pinking shears for edges
- skives with slant-bladed Japanese style leather knife
- cylinder sewing machine
- French binding
- [not sure how he patterned the quarters]
- closes the backseam last
- white fabric lining in the quarters
- French edger to trim the lining at the topline
- eyelets set over an anvil
- sews a wrapper cord across the bottom of the throat
Insole
- cuts from tracing of featherline/bottom
- submerse in water
- glass
- mount with staple gun
- wrap with bike tires
- uses glass to bevel the insole under the arch
- outside feather
- marked in at waist
- incise with 30° knife
- spreads cut
- feather plow
- holdfast
- incise and spread the same way
- feather plow again
- smooths with bone
- wets with brush
- pre-pierces holes 360°
Pre-Lasting
- wets with spray bottle
- first draft at toe
- then to heel
- [don’t see any tack the upper at the heel]
- then to waist
- then to joints
- lots of featherline hammering before many tacks
- pulls all these tacks
Stiffeners
- cut from hides
- bell skiver
- some hand skiving, too
- dunked in water
- tacks onto lasts
- lots of tacks!
- drafts over the featherline
- left to dry
- insert with paste
- lasted again
- not much shown
- bends tacks over
- drafts toe lining separately first
- side linings, skived down one last
- pastes toe puffs over
- lots of tacks left standing up
- lots of hammering
- left to dry with vamps turned up
- skives dry
- hot edge iron on the toe puff
- takes contour of front of toe with pin gauge
- checks right versus left
- trims lining
- trims toe puff right at holdfast
- sands and smoothes over feather
- paste on top of puff, rolls vamp down
- lasts upper toe
- lots of tacks left standing straight
- tacks look like wire brads
Thread Making
- rolling on knee
- looks like 7 cords
Welt Making
- beveled by hand, slowly
Welting
- beeswax in Tupperware
- using curved needles
- saddlestitch
- one needle through at a time
- black cord on the inside of the holdfast at heel
- trims, hammers
- edge beater
- lays a strip of leather inside the inner channel and hammers down
Bottoming
- lays double-sided tape within the cavity, lays plastic sheet on top, marks the inside of the welt
- creates a paper pattern of the inside cavity
- looks like black foam of some kind for filler
- wraps metal shank in athletic tape
- black foam-looking shank cover on top
- then cork sheet
- cork sheet in forefoot
- rasp to smooth
- fiddleback waist marked in pencil on cork
- [can just see in resting photo of bottom that heel seats were sewn in, not welted
- double-sided tape on cork
- plastic over, traces outside of welt, marks fiddleback
- paper pattern covering back to heel breast
- cuts outsole leather from pattern
- glass
- stitching groover in lines of fiddleback on leather [to help bend over cork?]
- [he taped the upper just inside the welt at some point]
- lots of hammering
- trims the outsole in short strokes, backhand
- sands the edge with a block, then glasses
- fudging wheel over heat
- marks outseam stitch holes with awl first
- wets the outsole and sharpens blade before cutting channel flap
- hammers the flap out
- marks stitch line with dividers, then incises, gouges out, and rubs with bone
- outseaming into fudging valleys
- big, thick thread!
- rewet flap to close it and hammer down
- opens it up again, then glues down
Heeling
- pegging through seat
- one row of pegs
- rand over top
- skives backhand
- rasps
- nails down, nails not all the way
- nails clipped flush
- cements first lift
- skives flat again
- cements next lift
- checks level by rocking file
- nails down, clips them flush again
- stops to check pitch
- cements toplift
- C-clamps on marble to compress heel stacks
- sands with long block, then peg rasp, then glass
- incises recesses for toe taps
- heel breast shape from paper template
- trims layer after layer down
Finishing
- heel marking tool
- stain by hand with brush
- hot iron on wax
- screws to fix toe taps
- lots of hand work on welt
- hot edge iron
- decorative nails in heel
- hand staining outsole and heel
- delasts on a post
- Saphir shoeshine kit