YouTube video by Steve Doudaklian
Notes
First Pair
- repairing shoes for a 90-year-old’s birthday
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Anytime we see … nails on the shank here [along the edge of a half sole, toward the heel breast] we know it was done in Europe. I don’t know why they do that, and I think it’s a little crazy. You’re nailing right through the wooden shank and you’re cracking the shank. Don’t do that, guys, come on.
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In most cases that I’ve taken things apart, it’s broken the shank.
- odd hybrid construction: welt was chain stitched to the lining, then the upper was flared out and stitched down
- reuses the old footbed, since formed to feet
- heel seat was holed out, so glues new leather of the same thickness on top, trims to shape, then sands the old off from the bottom, to preserve the contours without increasing the thickness
Florsheim Imperials
- later models
- false nails reinforcing toplifts
- hammers stitches holding Gemming to insole down so the feet don’t feel them
- mounting
- lay insole in upper over anvil
- brush glue onto outside of gemming holdfast
- let stand 5 minutes
- squeeze upper to holdfast
- stitch
- “suicide heel” with v-cleats inset at back corners of top lifts
Nettleton
Cordovan Hanover
- new French binding
- wet and roll the vamp in the opposite direction to reduce creasing
- hammers on a rand that stretches right across the bottom of shoe to make a heel seat