YouTube video by Matt Paker showing making of men’s wholecut Oxford loafers with a Norwegian seam and English welt
Notes
- after pre-piercing inseam holes, the maker inserts a wire brad from the outside in through each hole to keep it open
- tongue spacer
- dyes the upper after pre-lasting
- sews a Norwegian inseam, then turns the upper out, pre-pierces the insole again, inserting wire brads again, and welts to a holdfast
- uses masking tape to make a pattern for the outsole, traces it onto an outsole cut stock, adds a margin around it, carves out from the top to facilitate bending for the fiddle waist
- pares the outsole to the welt
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hidden channel
- cuts the flap freehand
- pre-pierces outseam holes
- leather heel rand between first heel lift up from the outsole and second up
- wood pegs to stack