YouTube video series showing Anthony Delos making a pair of very tall horse riding boots
Part 1
- 0:19 lastmaking
- 1:28 insole and stiffener cutting
- 2:17 knife sharpening
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2:23 insole and stiffener preparation
- feather cut and glassed all the way around
- 4:01 stiffener skiving
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4:28 lasting
- drafts the toe
- lasts the heel
- 5:37 crab-style shank laster
- 6:04 uses a pneumatic staple gun to fix outside the tacks, closer to the featherline, around the waist and seat
- then trims the waist and seat inside and bends the tacks inward
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6:21 forepart
- tacks are now removed from the waist and heel
- toe stiffener under side linings
- cements the stiffener just under the featherline
- Swedish-style lasting pliers
- staple gun around the tacks again
- removes the tacks
- thread making on knee
- toe puff shaping with wood burnisher and sandpaper
- side lining lasted
- cements some kind of white strip over the edge of the toe puff. Looks like newspaper?
- lasts the toe with tacks, look like copper
- staple around again
- marks a line above the featherline, marks for holes with wing dividers
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10:14 inseaming
- awl from the outside in, starting at the heel breast line
- appears to be a straight awl
- saddle stitch
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11:05 sewing the heel seat
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channels with welt knife
- 11:57 turning out the waist
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12:53 shank, rand, and midsole
- wood shank
- leather rand
- nails the rand
- trims the midsole with shoe knife
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16:39 outsole
- boar bristles
- blonde hand wax
- thread looped over shoulders until needed
- trims outsole with shoe knife
- sands on line finisher
- stitching channel
- saddle stitch outseam
Part 2
- 0:14 burnishing the outsole
- 0:32 trimming the welt with a yankee welt knife
-
heel building
- 0:39 glassing the heel seat
- 1:00 marking the heel breast on the bottom and sides of the outsole with a scribe and flexible steel rule
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1:41 nailing the heel seat
- clips off the nails
- then drives them flush
- 2:05 cementing the first heel lift
- 2:21 marks heel lifts for cutting by tracing a top lift onto a side
- cuts the heel lifts with what look like Kretzer Spirale
- soaks lifts in water
- 2:43 glasses then roughs heel lifts
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3:27 mounting heel lifts
- hammers down
- 3:49 then trims by hand with TINA-style knife
- skives the front / breast edge of the second lift by hand
- 4:08 heel shaping stack on finishing machine
- machine: HARDO Caravelle “ONFROY” Paris
- 4:59 adjusts the stance balance by sanding the bottom of the heel lift and standing on the top lift
- 5:14 nailing through the heel lifts
- 5:34 mounting top lift
- 6:11 drafting and cutting out boot emblem
- 6:37 sharpening stone
- 6:41 trimming top lift
- 6:48 marks heel breast on outer edge with rule
- 7:00 marks heel breast on bottom of top lift
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7:17 cutting the heel breast
- hammers a knife blade into the side of the heel breast
- cuts by hand with a knife
- glasses the surface
- convex heel breast shape
- 8:03 decorative nails
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9:57 bottom edge finishing
- glass
- sandpaper
- brown dye
- bevels edge with rasp
- 10:58 edge iron
- continues beveling edges with rahn file
- 11:16 alcohol burner for edge iron
- 11:44 crow wheel around heel seat
- 11:58 edge iron
- cloth burnishing
- 12:18 edge dyeing freehand with brush
- 13:10 waxing and burnishing
- burnishing iron on heel stack
- crow wheel around the heel seat again
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13:55 outsole and top lift finishing
- glasses
- more filing decorative nail pattern
- hair dryer
- sandpaper
- sanding stick
- cloth burnish
- [looks like very dilute dye]
- embosses stamp DELOS onto waist
- 15:25 more edge burnishing, crow wheel, edge ironing
- delasting
- 16:59 lays a scrap of leather over the back of the heel to pry out the two tacks through the backstrap seams at the counter point, then hammers the upper to the last where the tacks here
- 17:12 setting the last hook deep in the tall boot
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17:30 struggling to pull the last
- boot upside down between knees
- treeing
- 17:50 sprays water into the boot shaft
- 18:02 dusts talc onto the front shin and foot part of the boot tree before inserting
- talcs the back half of the tree, too
- separates the halves of the tree with a wood wedge
- also talcs the wedge
- 18:59 pushes the wedge in with bodyweight, then flips the boot over and hammers on the top of the wedge
- 19