YouTube video by Andi’s Workshop making custom hiking boots from original lasts
Overall
- Norvegese
Lastmaking
- 0:14 foot tracing
- plaster cast of feet
- builds up the form around the toe, adds more plaster, then rasps down toe shape
- adds more over instep
- footbed impression from casting
- completely encases in new layer of plaster
- makes a plaster mold around built-up foot casting
- last casting in expanding foam
-
2:46 expanding foam to fill
- author’s reply to a YouTube comment:
The plaster is model plaster from the DIY store. The foam for the moulding is made by the company www.beil-peine.de. The foam designation is: Rigid Foam ASTI-OP and ASTI-L.
- author’s reply to a YouTube comment:
- full-height boot last
-
cuts in two parts
- heel and lower leg part
- forepart
- big foam pad over Achilles
- marks pattern in pencil on last
Patterning
- tapes last
- traces through onto tape to make pattern pieces
- adds allowances around tracings
Making
- JR leather
- big orange foam
- molds foam by hand with heat gun
- Tandy-style injector-blade skiver
- straight bar stock knife
- molds heel counters over wooden concave depression with hammer
- skiving over thin marble plate
- hand-crank post-bed sewing machine
- spray adhesive for foam
- big padding on tongues
- thin lining tape
- rebar eyelet setter
- insole wet molded to last
- traces bottom paper onto insole to trim arch
- Schein lasting pliers
- skives holdfast with flat knife
- 360° holdfast
- pre-pierces holes
- no outside feather
- Hirschkleber for stiffeners
- initial toe draft before lacing
- staple gun for lasting lining
- lasts the lining separately
- lasts the heel lining with needle-nose pliers
- heat gun on toe puff, looks heat-activated
- side linings
- spray bottle to wet before upper lasting
- starts lasting upper at back, doing the entire heel
- then up through shank
- finally to toe
-
14:59 thread making
- three strands on winder at once
- drill powered
- wooden strap cutter for welt
- pulling tight with leather sleeves around fingers
- skive ends against plate
- then pierces final hole through overlapping skived ends
- welt sewed straight down
- turns uppers out and glues to welt
- lays strip of leather over cavity on inside of holdfast
- takes impression of cavity with broad masking tape
- cork sheet filler
- rasps cork flat
- 18:22 wraps upper in plastic wrap
Laminated Carbon Fiber Shank
- 18:25 insole and filler are covered with tape and plastic wrap
- lays over the plastic wrap
- shows laying two layers; may have added more
- wraps the laid shank with plastic wrap on bottom to form
- removes the shank from the shoe and cleans up on a belt sander
- cements the shank into the filler
- lays a towel over the shank when hammering it into the filler
Midsole
- 18:58
- leather
- 18:25 channels the midsole from the inside, turning the lip up toward outside edge
- outseams by hand with a curved awl, holding a round of beeswax in his non-dominant hand
- saddle stitches with rings of leather around forefingers to pull tight
- closes the channel with the peen of a French hammer
- sands the bottom on the belt sander
Slipsole
- 20:29
- flat rubber slipsole from sheet
- splits essentially half of its thickness away with a very long, straight-bladed knife
- makes the heel height by splitting less away from the heel part of the slipsole
Outsole
Delasting
- last comes out easily in pieces