Spanish-language YouTube video by Wilson Meneses Ramírez about patterning wingtip Chelsea boots
Notes
- taped the last on the lateral side
- designing on last
- marks center points on top of cone and tip of toe, top of plane and heel point
- marks main axis with strip of tape already marked with line
- 4:30 suspends from toe to top of cone, then presses and stretches down to stick
- immediately cuts along main axis lines and removes excess on medial side
- marks metatarsals by laying last against side of bench
- alternative method: scratch pencil onto a piece of paper, then lay last on benchtop and rub against the pencil on the paper, leaving a mark
- join joint marks using measuring tape
- 15 mm down from top of cone to mark top point
- divide line from main axis to ball point in half and mark point
- counter point for normal dress shoe back height: number of last, plus 20 in men’s
- connect points for depth line
- 9:54 remove tape
- starts by marking ground line and elevation line
- lasting allowances
- sets compass on ruler
- 15 mm through seat and shank
- 12 mm around toe, tapered to 15 mm at ball
- “magic knife” for cutting pattern slashes in one pass
- 5 mm fold allowances
- brings lower back corner of the heel counter half in 1 cm
- 10 mm lap allowance between vamp and counter
- scores a fold line with a knife, using an old square, to avoid damaging a clean one
-
31:06 pattern springing
- pivots by holding marker on a line inside from the front of the vamp
- tries to do it left-handed to show the camera
- once reaches the slipper line, pivots to bring the tip of the toe the fold line
- then moves pen to tip of vamp and rotates around that to trace teh bottom, along the lasting allowance
- smooths the curves by hand
- then adds fold allowance
- lays the vamp pattern over the counter pattern to check
-
38:05 then traces gore pattern
- 1 cm lap allowance like always
- can do 8 mm for economy
- 41:03 demonstrates how the gore seam of the sprung vamp corresponds to the leading edge of the gore pattern by rotating over top
- same pattern pieces for lining
- if crimped
- traces a new copy of the vamp profile
- adds turn allowances
- can use pattern piece at this stage to make crimping board
- 45:55 adds 1 cm additional allowance all around
- send this out for crimping, place pattern back on and trim
- allowance: for soft material, less, for stiff material, more
- alternative: don’t spring, join with zig zag or welt down the main axis