book produced by Schuh Bertl and Helge Sternke about haferlschuh
published by HEEL Verlag GmbH in Königswinter
copyright 2015
Contents
| Was ist ein Haferlschuh? | What is a Haferlschuh? |
| Die Geschichte und Bedeutung des Haferlschuhs | The History and Meaning of the Haferlschuh |
| Der Haferlschuh als Modeschuh | The Haferl Shoe as a Fashion Shoe |
| Der Leisten | The Last |
| Warum Leder? | Why Leather? |
| Der Schaft | The Shaft |
| Der Schuhbau in gezeichneten Einzelschritten | Shoe Construction in Illustrated Individual Steps |
| Tipps und Tricks für den Fachmann | Tips and Tricks for the Professional |
| Schuhpflege | Shoe Care |
| Hersteller, Vereine und Institutionen | Manufacturers, Clubs and Institutions |
| Glossar | Glossary |
Notes
Step by Step
- Haferlschuhs originally wood pegged
- uses “red beech” for wood last
- uses a bandsaw for last carving
- expects waviness in the insole from sewing the inseam
- recommends skiving on a glass plate in part so the leather will stick to it
- uses an alcohol burner to harden leather toe puff
- shows thread making with a wire bristle
- reminds several times to keep re-applying coad during inseaming
- uses twisted shoemaker stitch to hold tight and fill the hole
- reminds several times that using needles with bulges near the eye reams out holes, leading seams to slip
- filler: cork for stitchdown down, cork for welted
- advocates outseaming by piercing from the outsole up toward the upper for smaller exit holes for finer work
Tips and Tricks
- forcefully advocates for specialization in particular shoemaking styles for quality results
- advocates wiping toes with wire
- discourages braided thread for inseaming and outseaming, as it stretches, can’t absorb coad, and can’t be tapered to a taw
- emphasize that waxed ends must be no thicker than the main body of the thread to avoid creating larger holes
- recommends stitching down heavier leathers and welting thinner ones
- recommends small German-style square awls for the finest possible exit holes
- recommends placing toe puffs grain side out and heel counters grain side in, since bulging happens toward the grain side during drying
Institutions
- Auer
- Bertl
- Heinrich Dinkelacker
- Heimatmuseum Obersdorf
- Josef Kelldorfner
- Klemann Shoes
- Schuhkönig
- John Lobb
- Maftei
- Nöß
- Perlinger
- Rendenbach
- Spenlé
- Steinberger
- Jacob, F. Schuhe
- Trachten Information Center
- Zaisenberger und Grill
Glossary
- entry on lasts notes regional peculiarities for Haferlschuh:
- Allgäu: pointed
- Upper Baravaria: wide
- Austrian, Tylorean: chunky, wide, and rounded, sometimes square
- Viennese: slim, rough, high fronts
- Anglo-Saxon/English: flat, round
- defines “pelotte”
- defines “Störschuhmacher” as a traveling bootmaker allowed both to make new shoes and repair old ones
- boasts again about “The Real One Piece” seamless wholecut construction