YouTube video by Kustom Kraft
Notes
- shots of Kobel tanning and splitting
-
last build-up with cork
-
last taping
- insoles from side
- backseam by hand
- laces a strip of leather under the laces for lasting
- pre-lasts heel counters
- pares down and glasses leather heel counter over the feather
- uses a burnishing iron to crisp the edge of the counter across the featherline
- lasting
- heel at back point first
- then toe
- then balls, starting on inside
- heel seats very flat
- welts
- cuts welt with strap cutter
- cuts double welt, then grooves and opens channel
- submerges in water
- welt bent at 90 degrees
- dyes with Fiebing’s
-
thread making
- burnishes with scratch awl to remove fluff
-
welting
- Norwegian style, flat to upper
- look like wire bristles
- two hand leathers for pulling
- welts all the way around
- hammers leather strip into holdfast ditch to fill
-
nail shanks over anvil
- torch to heat
- vise grips to hold
- leather shank cover
- pegs the shank cover
- leather forepart filler
- leather midsole from side
- really wide welt
-
Dr. Sole outsole
- outseams by hand, lockstitching
-
popping and sinking
-
upper edge finishing
- sandpaper patch
- splits glass on diagonal to make a long scraping edge
- bevels the upturned part of the welt, as well as the top rim of the midsole
-
heel building
-
glue board
- pares the first lift flat down the center
- then rasps with four-in-hand
- pegs the lift
-
Dr. Sole top lift nailed down
- wets the edges, then burnishes with stick
- dyes the outseam stitches
- dyes the edges
- burnishes with rag
- crayons wax onto edges
- heated burnishing iron
-
Tokonole