YouTube video series by Ken Hishinuma about making his No. 22 exhibition pair of Moccasin toe Norvegese construction shoes
Inseaming
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTtKjpU3chE
- inseam cord from 10 strands of Ramie
- composite stitching with single additional thread on outside, candy-cane style
- breaks a bristle off during inseaming
- discussion of water resistance
- lots of friction pulling thick cords through
Outseaming
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3IVCrgnP24
- three rows of stitching visible, two outseam stitch lines
- can also do just one outseam
- twisting the awl a lot
- first outseam stitching on the rim of the upper
- stitches first line same pitch as inseam, but offset by a half stitch
- 8 SPI, about 3mm
- cuts the upper rim flush to the stitch line, as close as possible
- reveals the midsole
- outer stitch line three plies of ramie
- dyes the thread again
- 5 strands of Ramie for outseam
- attached leather sole to midsole
- hammers through a scrap of sole leather
- burnishes with a stick
- whittles to shape
- cuts a flap for hidden channel
- higher SPI for outside outseam
- need a lot of thread to stitch around
- “hiro” unit of length: span of both arms
- normal dress shoe: 2-2.5
- these: 3.5-4
- his arms over 1.8m long
- about 6 meters total
- for 26 cm shoes, soles about 30 cm long
- 2.56 hiro for Norvegese inseam
- lot of thread in small shoes
- seems to be using wire bristles
- lays the threads carefully in the hole, no casting
- point of the awl looks like a square awl, but it’s very thin and short
- brown outseam thread
- to come: third stitch line