YouTube video by Ken Hishinuma showing lasting of a wholecut Oxford
Notes
- uppers have a shadow stitched side seams
- adds the heel counter in a moist state
- upper was pre-lasted to help shaping
- drafts the toe, then outside joint, then inside joint
- pulls the lining first, then the upper
- hammers tacks with the back of the beak of the lasting pliers
- lots of lasting allowance around the heel
- splitting pleats
- lasts the toe lining onto adhesive, without tacks
- burnishes the lasted lining against the outer lip of the holdfast with a flat metal tool
- tacks the toe puff three times at its top edge for lasting
- lasts the toe puff with tacks
- removes the lasting tacks from the toe puff after it has hardened
- grabs a bunch of tacks at a time with pincers
- trims the toe puff to the holdfast with a Japanese leather knife held backhand
- pares the toe puff, top and bottom, with the knife
- applied yellow tape over where the upper was folded up
- rasps the toe puff to set shape and define featherline
- applies “leather hardener” to top of toe puff
- burnishes the top of the toe puff with a wood dowel
- toe lasting
- lots of hammering the upper around the toe
- uses glancing blows around the recede
- bends the tacks in
- hammers all around the holdfast