interview of Dominic Casey and Jim McCormack by Kirby Allison
Notes
- West End
- Lobb’s trained a bunch of people
- “Polish Corridor” at Lobb’s
- outworkers: good to have a Main Shop plus a “By-Stroke” shop to also take work from
- Terry Moore, legendary Foster & Sons lastmaker
- Anthony Cleverley
- Peal & Co
- riding boot making not the same as men’s shoemaking
- beginners don’t have the hand strength
-
West End style
- square heels
- not exceptionally narrow waists
- curved, beveled waists
- Lobb exhibition work had fiddleback waists
- understated, not flashy, balanced
- outworkers match the shop’s style
- fishtail (outsole coloring)
- different channel widths and awls for waist and forepart outseaming
- SPI by weight of sole, for max strength
- riding boot: 8-10 SPI
- proportions of last
- last length versus width
- vamp length versus facing length
- younger makers doing longer lasts, more toe
- the maker decides the heel, ball, and waist placement
- important: how long to soak outsole leather
- outsole leather can be hammered to stiffen
- not on turn shoes or pumps
- heel lifts do get hammered
- soaking changes how the leather bends
- instructions to makers on work tickets, often in shorthand
- e.g. how much welt to show
- e.g. waist treatment
- taught that only repairers show nails on top pieces
- “blind top piece” a technique
- called Eric Lobb “Mr. Eric”
- in shared workspace, older makers hid behind curtains to avoid showing secrets
- took riding boots apart to learn techniques
- Gush: acetic acid and gelatin adhesive