lastmaking and last fitting book by Walter J. Lewis
Notes
Measurement of the Foot
Importance of the Subject
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There seems to be an ever growing demand on manufacutrers for what are known to the trade as “measures” or “specials.”
Measuring Apparatus
- common tools
- sizestick
- tape measure
- lead pencil
- paper larger than foot
The Sizestick
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the starting point of the scale is quite arbitrary
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scarcely possible to justify the peculiar division adopted
- same stitck rarely used for measuring foot and last
- Duckenfield stick also useful for ‘ranging’
- heights of boots
Tape Measure
- test it first
- may stretch with use
Method of Measurement
- sizestick: just touch foremost toe
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it is best, when taking the girth measurements, to have the leg thrown slightly forward, with the heel resting on the ground, as the foot can be held steady in that position without strain on any part
- girths
- joint
- instep
- heel
- ankle
- height
- leg circumference
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The Americans adopt a different plan, for isntance, instead of a lower instep measure they take what is called a waist measure diagonally across the foot, from the top of the joint measure about the middle of the top of the foot to the waist; also a measure from the top of the instep round the heel, the same as as heel measure of last, by which description indeed it is known.
Draft of Foot
- pencil vertical
- inside of arch again with pencil tilted
- mark positions of corns, bunions
- show actual and relative positions of big and little joints “and therefore the inclination to be given to the tape when making up the joint measure on the last”
- can use a flat pencil to reduce thickness added to outline
Profile of Foot
- some bespoke makers take them
- plan and elevation
Position of Measurements
- position of tape under foot marked on draft
Location Tape
- two tapes fixed at right angles from their zero lines
- “location” or “triangular” tape
- one tape hangs over the front of the foot, measuring from foremost toe to index other measurements
Heel Measurement
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differs with the kind of boot to be provided
- low heels: foot at right angle to leg
- high heels: heels raised to the heel height of the boot
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It will be found that when the heel is raised as described, the heel measurement will be from ⅕ in. to ½ in. less than when measured with the foot at right angles to the leg. The reason for this is the tendons or leaders going from the leg to the toes, over the foot, are more nearly in a straight line.
- [aside: allusion to the windlass action]
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It is somewhat important to measure the heel carefully, for high heels, the upper should clip rather tightly round the foot at that particular part, in order to somewhat counteract the tendency which the weight of the body has to force the foot into the toes of the boot.
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We are not speaking now of those absurdly high heels worn by some ladies…1¼ in. to 1¾ in. in height.
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Where the heel is 2 inches or more in height the foot is carried altogether out of its natural position, and its natural action is prevented.
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People wearing excessively high heels cannot, strictly speaking, be said to walk…
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continually walking down a hill
Matters requiring Special Attention
- foot size differences
- instep swelling
- variations in waist arches
- “Want of Proportion”
Types of Feet
- Figure 8: “normal shape”
- Figure 9: high instep, thick ankle, small heel measure
- Figure 10: small instep, small ankle, large heel measure
Measurer’s Duties
- bodyweight
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the heavier a man is the more will his feet expand in walking
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not unusual to weigh a man for his boots
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big heavy men cannot, as a rule, bear their boots so tight as light persons can
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- age
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Elderly people are sometimes liable to a swelling of the feet…
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the feet or girls are often larger between the ages of 16 and 20 than at any subsequent period
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The feet of men may continue to lengthen up to the age of 32 or 33, sometimes as much as half-an-inch after the age of 30.
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- occupation
- lifting or carrying heavy loads: need allowance
- fleshy or boney
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A person who has fleshy feet can generally wear smaller boots…
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A boot for a bony foot should be made up to measure on the joint, and ⅛in. under instep measure; one for a fleshy foot ⅛in. under at joint and ¼in. under at instep, for ordinary walking boots.
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Form of Order
- length of foot
- size made
- joint
- instep
- heel
- ankle
- height
- leg
- calf
- seat
- waist
- toes
- bunion
- corns
- treading over
- general remarks
Special Methods of Measurement, &c.
- can take measurements witout sizestick or tape measure
- foot draft
- tearing slits in strip of paper as measuring tape
- mark paper tape measurement points on draft
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the foot will measure nearly a size larger than it does when raised from the ground as in the ordinary method
- second system: index all measurements by distance from heel
The Podameter
- S. J. Scott of Glasgow, patentee
- angled box for measuring feet and lasts
- several objections
The Pedistat
- Thomas S. Ellis, The Human Foot
- another by H.W. Morris of Northampton
Impressions of the Foot
- “character of sole”
- pressure points bearing bodyweight
- recipes for solutions
- papier maché
Last Fitting
TODO