YouTube video of Songlim making Tyrolean-style stitchdown construction ankle boots
Notes
- paper tracings with vertical pen
- ball girths
- foam impressions filled with plaster or some other white liquid
- foam stripped away
- building footbeds
- foam insole
- covered in layer of cork pressed down
- customer foot stands on the on the cork, through plastic sheet
Last Build-Up
- cork sheets
- straight knife backhand
- rasp
Clicking
- rectangular sheet of cardboard
- looks like manilla paper
- mark every hole
- symmetrical pattern pieces
- cutting slits
- wing dividers for edges
- hand punched holes
- leather
- paper patterns from previous step
- white pen
- 30° box cutter
- lining
- cut with big shears
- scraps onto the floor
- bell skiver
Closing
- glue-up
- round rubber pad for gluing and pounding
- turning over edges with straight pick, like a lacing fid
- curved knife for cutting
- flat-bed sewing machine for closing back with crisscross stitch
- flat-bed machine for seams, too
- post bed machine
- padded collar lining white foam
- side zippers
- burning cut thread ends with lighter
- hole punching technique
- lean the punch tip over the hole at 45°
- bring the punch up to 90° and strike
- hand sewing moc toe apron
- jerk needle awl
- white paint marker for joining
- post bed machine to sew together
Insole Making
- tracing last on thick white paper insole board
- nailed to last
- backhand straight knife, freshly stoned
- then pulled from last
- pasted at three points, glued to bottom of footbed
- skives out a ton of the cork
- sands smooth on the inside
- pastes black sheet on top
- Neoprene?
- then some kind of grey suede-looking material
Lasting
- lots of paste
- round nails
- toe tip first
- then sides of ball
- checks for straightness
- two nails around counter point, through upper
- left to dry
- uppers cut and turned out
Bottoming
- turned out uppers traced on black foam
- looks like 360° stitchdown
- steel shanks pasted in
- mounted direct to foam midsole
- glue on top of upper flanges
- some kind of foam or rubber welt-like strip around the edge of the uppers, where they turn out
- Vibram-style flat unit outsole directly bonded to midsole
- adhesive heated over open flame
Outseaming
- stitching through the lugs with the awl so the lock thread can lie in the lands between lugs on the bottom
- awl piercing from the top
- lockstitch
Heeling
- adhesive heated over open flame
- improvized heel press, looks like a bottle jack
- nails the top lift
Delasting
- on a jack