YouTube video series by Terry Kim showing the making of a pair of brown leather dress boots
Notes
- makes a cardboard mock-up, sews it together, wets it with a continuous mist spray bottle, fits it over the last
- glues fabric backers onto the quarters
- uses lots of thin double-sided tape
- sets washers behind eyelets with an anvil-and-punch-style eyelet setter toolset
- tacks the back to the last slightly with two tacks, one each to the right and left of the counter point, through stitch holes of the backstrap
- drives tacks with the top of the beak of his lasting pliers
- uses only relatively thin, tapered-beak lasting pliers
- cuts insoles from a bend
- keeps a measuring tape glued to the edge of his bench, uses it to set the width of wing dividers and a compass
- uses a rhan file to rasp feather after carving it, then wets and burnishes the surface
- heavy use of channel opener in the incisions for both the feather and the inside of the holdfast
- 21:43dissolves some kind of blue film in water, then brushes the solution onto the inside edge of the holdfast
- brings holdfasts really far in inside the arches
- Titebond III for heel counters and toe puffs
- uses a glazing iron to burnish the leather of the heel seat of the upper after heel lasting
- checks toe shapes with a wire-type contour gauge
- video shows splitting pipes in an interesting way, cutting quickly to the point where he sets each tack
- uses heat-shrink sacrificial shoe covers, then covers the tops of the boots with plastic food cling wrap and scotch tape