YouTube video series by William Powell showing patternmaking of a Chelsea boot for Lobb’s from first-person perspective
Part 1
- creation of a standard and mean forme
- cuts waxed pattern paper from a roll with a straight knife
Part 2
- uses a square to draw a ground line
- 1⅛″ heel height
- explanation of heel pitch versus heel height
- toe spring demonstrated with last on bench
- “They call me Mr. Tape.”
- explains lasting allowance
- marks a diagonal line up the center of the side of the boot
- uses an existing pattern piece for the exposed shape of the gore, places on the pattern to judge by eye
- brings in front and backseam curves by shading the pencil line thicker
- sends pattern back to Lobb
- they cut rough pieces of leather to the pattern, return rolled up
- he will click to final shape, close to pattern