Lasting Allowance

allowance added to the bottom of an upper pattern piece, creating extra material below the featherline that can be grasped and fastened down during lasting

Patterns for mass production frequently minimize lasting allowance as much as possible, to avoid waste. Bespoke and sample shoes often give more lasting allowance to give margin of error, because the stretching behavior of the material may not be familiar, and because budget allows for more waste.

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