a YouTube video series by Harry Rogers showing the making of handwelted, pegged derby shoes
1. Lastmaking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvC_L2uX6Fs&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
2. Brogue Teardown
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPfx1djJyOk&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
3. Pattern Making
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kcbi4eTS79E&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
4. Clicking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7U3n1ygFTrM&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
5. Broguing and Gimping
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ9prAxmZmU&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
6. Top Seam and Skiving
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUw42tm2sg8&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
7. Closing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6myjVNLfpw&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
8. Lining
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rg4uojy7B7w&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
9. Midsole
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldqyoOiEjrY&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
10. Stiffeners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50VLlNmZABw&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
11. Lasting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bsj71BtzGmo&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
12. Lasting Continued
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dkGuofe6UY&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
13. Coad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yIsZmz69-8&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
14. Welting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdZwJASEw_Q&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
15. Rand and Shank
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZzQn61dzkU&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
16. Outsoles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9sDk-i1UYc&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
- leather soles
- cemented on with Colle de Cologne
- lasting pliers with tape around jaws to crimp the welt to the outsole
- also taps the welt flange on a dragon
- round welt knife to trim
- drag knife
- fudge for marking
- edge beveler
- problem: last has a pronounced curve toward the featherline, and made the welt rather narrow
- Dremel rotary tool to channel the outsole from the bottom
- outseam from the bottom up
17. Shoemaking the Heel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO4dPkD-B38&list=PLVcHxw2MHN0QWjmPHQZSQ-V8Tu8xiG-U4
- leather blanks, gluing and pegging
- rubber heel topper, gluing and nailing
- laid a round before the midsole
- could have made a second round to further level it out
- used sanding block to flatten
- not a very high heel, due to last
- about 3/4″ heel
- [skipped]
- glazing 8:10
- burnishing first with cold glazing iron
- polish irons smooth if they’re old
- heating up iron
- Renia Brillant-Wax
- rub wax directly onto leather to start
- melts some wax on beak of his iron, then rubs
-
I think actually this is sort of working.
- would have been good to tape around the upper to protect it
- secret: lots of heat on the head, to melt the wax more quickly, apply more evenly
- when left it on a long time seeing to the postman, got really hot, went on really well