Harry Rogers Easy Shoemaking Series

a YouTube video series by Harry Rogers showing the making of 360° stitchdown desert boots step by step

Part 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um6cO7ew0fc

• ordered lasts rather than making them this time
• discussion of issues with lasts made for the previous video series
  • toe shape
  • parting
  • forepart volume
• new lasts
  • Spring Line student lasts
  • yellow plastic
  • alpha hinge
  • model 15328
  • no last plates
  • came with bottom paper
• compared the new last bottom paper to the bottom of the previous wood last
• compared the lasts side by side
• pros and cons of DIY and commercial lasts
• overall advice: buy commercial lasts
• warnings about buying lasts secondhand

Part 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_a31WIdEP4

• dissecting a boot to see construction and scavenge parts
  • internal heel stiffener
  • cloth lining
  • unit vamp and tongue
  • glued-in foam insole with sock liner
  • thin midsole laminated to crepe-like outsole
  • fits the upper over the new last
  • internal heel counter
  • whip stitched backseam
  • backstay with pull tab

Part 3 Pattern Making

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SWfLSLZVew

• last taping
• can slip paper between the tongue and quarters of an existing shoe and trace the quarters
• traces the quarters of another pair and lays it over the new last
• draws the design onto the tape
• marks the inside of the pattern with notches
• cuts the pattern pieces right off the last
• three pieces: vamp and two quarters
• draws eyelets onto quarter pattern
• adds allowances on paper, including an extra allowance for the backseam
• draws the tongue around the strip of tape left attached from the facing gap
• cuts slits in the bottom of the vamp form to flatten, traces around them
• reverse for the other shoe
• paper test fitting over the last

Part 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpUSxEohN3Q

• using undyed veg tan leather
• marks around patterns with scratch awl
• prices the seam allowance lines with awl
• skives by hand with an East Asian leather knife
• three eyelets
• sharpening edge beveler with wire and very fine emery paper
• marks stitch lines with wing dividers
• dyes with oil dye
• glues quarters to vamp on the last
• post bed sewing machine tack stitches at the tabs
• cuts midsole blanks with bottom paper and allowance with dividers
• moistens with spray bottle
• clamps the flange of the uppers to the midsole

Part 5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDts2s2XHFo

• wood burnisher around flange
• decorative tree leaf stamp on border of toe cap
• gluing toe cap on
• tacking stitches through upper and midsole on post-bed sewing machine
• outseaming with curved awl by hand
• 6mm spacing
• jerk needle
• only now closing the back of the heel, butt stitch
• contrast-color heel counter cover-like piece glued on over the back
• lip knife to trim outsole
• will stitch the heel cap to the upper when last removed

Part 6 Sole and Heel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElB2-o9wWT8

• bought the 9½/10 Vibram unit sole, but too short for toe shape
• sole from dissected shoe won’t work, either
• soling leather, build up a leather heel, stick-on heel and forefoot toppers
• roughing bottom of midsole
• Renia Colle De Cologne cement
• attach outsole in waist first
• crimp and hammer to midsole
• crimping pliers, cobbler’s anvil, or welt beater for flange
• can trim flange with bandsaw, knife, drag knife
• went with Vibram lugged half sole and heel topper
• cemented leather heel lifts
• can use band saw to cut heel lifts
• drag knife to trim outsole
• 12mm tacks in heel and top lift
• dyes and burnishes the edges
• Yankee Polish Brilliant Wax and edge iron for finishing
• can use round-head bolt

Part 7 Sock Liners

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzZ9rKOqk7E

• removing lasts
• screwdriver to break the last, but bent
• used a big fire poker
• “insocks”
• cork and canvas
• try-on
• sewing the heel cover