Terry Kim Derby Patternmaking Video

Notes

marks center of top of cone, then center of toe, center of top and bottom of backpart for main axis
lays a metal ruler over the last for main axis, marks slashes under it, then connects them
uses a measuring tape to mark ball from joint to joint
calculates back height
calculates Derby point
uses measuring tape laid on last to mark line from back point to derby point along the outside and inside of the last
connects inside and outside derby points across the cone with the measuring tape to mark a line
marks facing gap at a few points up the main axis, then connects them on each side
marks a few points at half width of facing and full width of facing, from the facing edge line, then connects them
sets compass to length on a ruler for eyelet spacing
draws topline apparently freehand
draws quarter tab curves freehand
marks points equidistant from back point to each side
marks heel breast points along the featherline
sets the last on a heel pitch gauge, then uses a ruler held vertically on the table to mark lines up from the heel breast points
uses those lines to freehand heel counter cover curves
freehands the quarter curves using short strokes
marks the length of the toe cap on the main axis
freehands the toe cap curves to the featherlines
freehands the top curve of the tongue over the topline
marks points for the quarter stay stitches

snap-off knife
- cuts down the main axis over the forepart first
- short strokes, without lifting knife
- then main axis down the back
then the tongue top and topline, peeling away waste
then the quarters
- peels from inside throat outward, to the tab
- sets a piece of print paper on the cone while the back of the quarter is still stuck to the last, presses the front part of the quarter down on the paper and cuts away excess
then peels the vamp, including the toe cap and back of the quarter, on each side
sticks the tip of the toe to the edge of his bench for storage while peeling the other side

lays on thick brown pattern paper
presses the topline from the back point forward first
then the vamp under the quarter
flattens the tape down from the top toward the featherline
cuts slashes in bottom with scissors, all the way from heel to toe, before flattening all the way down
uses a ruler to mark a line continuing the fold line
adds strips of tape to extend the fold line upward
[the flap of the quarter is still standing up, flapping loosely]
punches holes
- along the heel counter cover curve
- along the quarter curve
- for each eyelet
cuts the heel counter cover curve and quarter curve
[the punched holes seem to serve to aid in making pattern line holes]

tapes the pieces together across the vamps, up through the tongues
vamp and tongue pattern piece
- traces the vamp from the cap back, along the quarter curves
- pricks holes through the toe cap line with an awl
- adds seam allowance with a compass, marking points along the curves then connecting them
- marks lasting allowance with compass as a series of dots to be connected
- seam allowance for toe cap
quarter piece
- 22:00 traces the last form to pattern paper, bending the front part for the vamp out of the way to lay the quarter paper flat
heel counter cover
- lays both last forms together at the backseam over the pattern paper
- 22:25 traces both, creative a v-shaped pattern piece
- adds lasting allowance
goes back to add allowances to quarters
final trimming of pattern pieces with a clicking knife
punches full-diameter holes for eyelets in pattern pieces

cuts from leather
mark with silver pen
basting tape to assemble
sews together on cylinder sewing machine
wets before pulling over the last
tacks to last at back height
drafts the toe
plastic lacing over the last
draws a corrected line for top of tongue curve on the leather, then transfers the change to the pattern piece