video by Marcell Mrsan showing lasting of shell cordovan Derby shoes
Notes
- 1:30 feeling lasting tension
- sprays vamp with water bottle and allows it to soak in before lasting
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3:30 toe lasting (lap lasting)
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give time to the leather to stretch
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7:23 trims excess
- leave 5 mm more
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7:54 bends tacks
- “roughly 45°”
- all the way around the forepart
- 8:38 hammers the pleats down onto the insole
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9:06 splitting pleats
- tacks into pleats closer to the featherline
- removes old tacks further from the featherline
- bends the new tacks
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the leather has enough room to sit down a little bit, so I’m not going to concentrate a big chunk of leather in one little area
- 12:36 adds foot strap hold shoe in lap
- stainless tacks toa void rust
- water and alcohol mixture on the toe
- only bends down 45° because not cementing, only need tacks to hold the feather edge until welted
- hammers the feather edge extensively
- need only couple millimeters from the edge smooth
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if this is smooth, I am done
- hammers the top of the vamp for smoothness
- burnishes with bone folder just to check the smoothness of the surface, not permanent shine on cordovan